2011 Ram Dakota 4.7L Big Horn 132k. Just to shorten the story, going down the road I turn into a field entrance its muddy so I turn the switch to 4x4 it blinks for a few seconds, dings and srv 4wd light comes on. Not a major deal I assume the motor on the transfer case or a fuse i get back home fuse is good, so i know i know, but i ordered the new transfer case motor and change it out. Same thing happens, i read around it might be the actual selector switch in the cab $20 no big I order it same thing. I borrow a Inova SMS43 full system reader. And notice that my left rear wheel sensor is showing while parked that its going 407mph the other are all 0. The rear wheel sensor is ontop of the rear pumpkin not sure how it differentiates left to right reading the bull gear but whatever. In my mind i assume its a saftey thing the speed sensor says im going X mph transfer case says woo 407mph yea im not doing that. Its $17 i replace it I have the same issue still shows to 407mph....i also had installed a new battery before winter and now have a P0562 code (permanent) and a C150B code transfer case motor control circut voltage low. What in the wild world is going on Im at my whitts end.Reply


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• Dodge Dakota General Discussion

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Have you done a load test on the battery to make sure that it is good? Even new batteries sometimes fail. Also check for corrosion on the terminals. The issue could be entirely voltage related as indicated by the codes. Another possibility is a bad connection to a module somewhere, or stripped insulation that allowed the wires to corrode.

The speed sensor does not read left and right wheel speed, only the rotation of the ring gear in the differential. The front will have a left and right abs sensor that measures wheel speed if you have 4 wheel abs (I think that became standard on all 2011), otherwise it's just one sensor in the front and one in the back.

 

Yep the coder reader has a battery test and a alternator test function on it. Preformed both and everything came back as good or with in parameters. That wheel sensor I agree 100% how is it differentiates L-R when its just the bull gear it reads. I dont know, as soon as all the Holiday gatherings are caught up, I'll put my voltage meters on the connection to the transfer case motor and go from there. It's a bad connection I'm sure or hopeing.

 

I don't know how a code reader - no matter how fancy - could load test a battery. Usually it's a separate tool that will put a 200amp load on the battery and measure voltage drop. Also try using another code reader, they can sometimes give weird readings. The one I have has weird issues with negative temperature values and will underflow, showing temps around 7800°. It might just be giving weird results for the sensor if it is expecting four sensors, but only reading three.