I was curious if anyone has put HIDs on their 2011 durango? I have a heat and was looking to convert the headlamps and fog lamps to HID like I have done on all my other cars. I have used www.ddmtuning.com for all my HID kits and have been very happy with all of them. But reading the website it says that the newer Dodge models when they have the HID installed on them it sends an error code saying that a lamp is out. So they have remedied this with a box to install with their kit. Just wondering if anyone has used this and how well it worked? Like if you do get a headlight out does it inform you still or does it simply just trick the computer into thinking that it is always on? Also wondering how easy it is to get to these lights if anyone has done something like this? Thanks in advance!

 

I have had DDM HIDs on my Charger for over a year (my D came with OEM projectors). The computer controls all of the lighting in the Dodges so when you turn on an HID without the Error code eliminator (the box you refer to), the computer detects low draw, thinks the headlight is out and cuts the power. This will cause the HIDs to flicker on-then-off-then-on. The ECE is just a capacitor that places enough draw on the electrical system to fool the computer. The capacitor also helps to eliminate flicker when other high draw electrical devices are in use. I have never had any problems with DDMs products.

VERY IMPORTANT: The Dodge Charger is reverse polarity so the D likely is too so please research it. The headlight plugs need to be installed into their ballasts reversed (+ to - and - to +). Otherwise you will blow your new bulbs and maybe even the ballast.

 

The R/T and Citadel Hids are already installed

 

you need HIDs with a ballast. I had problems with flickering/throwing error codes with my 09 Ram...the HIDs with a ballast fixed it.

 

I know the R/T and citadel have HIDs but i do not have either of those models. As far as I know you cannot get HIDs without a ballast, at least not anymore.

 

On our C5 Corvette kits we sell we have to supply a resistor to go with the kits for the motorized headlights to work as well. I will see what options I can find for you if you like.

 

Go to DDM tuning

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W

All you need is a 35W kit, Bulb type is H11, Bulb color (temp) of your choice, HID harness is up to you, but not usually necessary and Error code eliminator: YES.

The error code eliminator is the capacitor that places enough draw on the electrical system to make it think a halogen bulb is present.

$45 total

DISCLAIMER: I am not affiliated with this company, but I am a consumer of their products.

 

Yes I understand that and all that I need. My main questions were if you do blow a bulb and are using the error code eliminator will you still get the headlight or foglight out message or not? Also when you unlock the vehicle and the headlights come on when you unlock does this use the HIDs or a different bulb?

 

I didn't use the error code eliminator, wasn't necessary. I installed AAC's with a relay and capacitor, no problem at all. The lights come on all the time and they do come on when the doors are unlocked, etc.

HIDs are an issue with Mopar in my experience. I've had flickering issues with them on my jeep wrangler and benz as well as my Dodge's. This setup seemed to do the trick.

 

Anyone know what bulb type the foglights are on the durango? I want to turn them to HID as well so they all match. Also does anyone know how to check the polarity of the headlights so I can either reverse the set up or not?