Proper Engine Break-in---Thoughts?
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Proper Engine Break-in---Thoughts?
So back in OCT 2009, when I got my 2010 Camaro, I remember a discussion on our Camaro5 forum about proper engine break-in. Basically, the general consensus was that the take-it-easy "Manual" recommendation was a bunch of bull ****ake. Most performance guys said to essentially drive it like you stole it as soon as possible.
They recommended WOT for a couple of 0-60 (or 80 if you can safely) runs, followed by a few minutes non-strain cool down. Something about you only have a few hundred miles to properly seat the piston rings with the cylinder? or something like that.
Anyway, wanted thoughts and input from you HEMI guys.
I pick it up TOMORROW!!!
Thanks!
They recommended WOT for a couple of 0-60 (or 80 if you can safely) runs, followed by a few minutes non-strain cool down. Something about you only have a few hundred miles to properly seat the piston rings with the cylinder? or something like that.
Anyway, wanted thoughts and input from you HEMI guys.
I pick it up TOMORROW!!!
Thanks!
What have you bought today ?????? LOL
I just drove mine without concern, Its got a warranty and if it's going to break, then sooner then later is better IMO....Good luck tomorrow picking up your truck, make the salesman go over everything with you and check your build sheet to make sure you have everything your suppose too, like cargo cover, flashlight, mats, and make sure they give you or get mailed to you the three thick manuals that don't come in the glove box. Customer Care sent me mine, owners manual, navigation / radio manual, and one other manual.
I just drove mine without concern, Its got a warranty and if it's going to break, then sooner then later is better IMO....Good luck tomorrow picking up your truck, make the salesman go over everything with you and check your build sheet to make sure you have everything your suppose too, like cargo cover, flashlight, mats, and make sure they give you or get mailed to you the three thick manuals that don't come in the glove box. Customer Care sent me mine, owners manual, navigation / radio manual, and one other manual.
What have you bought today ?????? LOL
I just drove mine without concern, Its got a warranty and if it's going to break, then sooner then later is better IMO....Good luck tomorrow picking up your truck, make the salesman go over everything with you and check your build sheet to make sure you have everything your suppose too, like cargo cover, flashlight, mats, and make sure they give you or get mailed to you the three thick manuals that don't come in the glove box. Customer Care sent me mine, owners manual, navigation / radio manual, and one other manual.
I just drove mine without concern, Its got a warranty and if it's going to break, then sooner then later is better IMO....Good luck tomorrow picking up your truck, make the salesman go over everything with you and check your build sheet to make sure you have everything your suppose too, like cargo cover, flashlight, mats, and make sure they give you or get mailed to you the three thick manuals that don't come in the glove box. Customer Care sent me mine, owners manual, navigation / radio manual, and one other manual.
Then you can call and they will send you the paper ones for free.
I just drove mine like I would normally drive. With 1500 miles on the clock at 3 -4 mths old I am going to change the oil soon.
STEVE
So back in OCT 2009, when I got my 2010 Camaro, I remember a discussion on our Camaro5 forum about proper engine break-in. Basically, the general consensus was that the take-it-easy "Manual" recommendation was a bunch of bull ****ake. Most performance guys said to essentially drive it like you stole it as soon as possible.
They recommended WOT for a couple of 0-60 (or 80 if you can safely) runs, followed by a few minutes non-strain cool down. Something about you only have a few hundred miles to properly seat the piston rings with the cylinder? or something like that.
Anyway, wanted thoughts and input from you HEMI guys.
I pick it up TOMORROW!!!
Thanks!
They recommended WOT for a couple of 0-60 (or 80 if you can safely) runs, followed by a few minutes non-strain cool down. Something about you only have a few hundred miles to properly seat the piston rings with the cylinder? or something like that.
Anyway, wanted thoughts and input from you HEMI guys.
I pick it up TOMORROW!!!
Thanks!
We can verify that by build dates on the door tag! I will check my build date tonight.
When I visited the plant in 2011, I noticed they do build in batches so its quite possible they were on the line at the same time.
STEVE
When I visited the plant in 2011, I noticed they do build in batches so its quite possible they were on the line at the same time.
STEVE
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Joined: Dec 2011
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I guess I will find out what is best. Drove my Durango normal, but my charger I hit 130 within a few miles from the dealer. 25,000 miles and two sets of tires later it is still going strong.
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Professional
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From: Lake Zurich, IL
Page 108 of the Owners Manual has Engine Break-in Recommendations.
"A long break-in period is not required for the engine and
"A long break-in period is not required for the engine and
drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).
After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or
55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental
and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil
changes should be consistent with anticipated climate
conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For
the recommended viscosity and quality grades, refer to
“Maintenance Procedures” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle”."Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).
After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or
55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental
and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil
changes should be consistent with anticipated climate
conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For
the recommended viscosity and quality grades, refer to