With my second attempt. I short and to the point this time. 2012 Durango crew 3.6l flex fuel e85
had a restricted trans filter, fluid blowing out the vent tube. Changed it so far no fluid out the vent tube. Just got it back from the dealership had oil changed and 2 recalls one for fuel pump relay one for alternator replacement. The charged $180 for a inspection it ran like **** when we dropped it of still ram like **** when we picked it up. Told them no on the $900 trans cooler replacement ( that’s where they said it was leaking from) that’s just the cost of the cooler. Pulled codes it had o2 sensor codes fuel lean and rich catylist system codes 8 all together. That repeated pending, permament, stored . Changed o2 sensor 3 are the same 1 is different. Car ran like **** before I changed them now it crank but no start. Pulled codes again had the same plus cam positioning sensor code. Bank 2 ( driver side ) replace cps car still crank no start! Any help would be great thanks

 

In the dealer's defense, if you took the vehicle in for the recall work and an oil change and did not ask them to dig into why it doesn't run well, you can't really expect them to fix that issue. Many people would throw a fit if they came in to pick up their car and were presented with a bill to fix a bunch of stuff they were not interested in having fixed.

As for the crank and no start, are you saying that it started, just didn't run well, before you changed the 4 oxygens sensors, but now that you've changed them it won't even start? If so, have you looked back over the work to make sure some other connectors weren't disconnected, wires broken, etc? Even disconnected oxygen sensors shouldn't cause a no start condition.

Do you have the tools to be able to determine if you are not getting spark or fuel? Since it would at least start recently those seem like the place to start rather than being too concerned with compression yet, but if you have both fuel and spark, compression will be another think to check.

Also, it may be of help to the forum members if you provide the actual code numbers that you're reading versus an interpretation of the codes.

-Rod

 

Yeah the first attempt of posting was a in detail account of the whole situation with actual codes and mechanical back ground it took about 30-45 minutes to write just making sure I had everything included and when I pressed the post button it took me back to a log in screen so I logged in and the entire post with the exception of the title was gone like a fart in the wind. So the second attempt was less detailed but the thing with the dealer. My wife took the car to them for the recalls and had them do the oil change wile it was there. The day we took it to them she had big problems with it starting and making it home after work. So I followed her to the dealership ( a mile or so from the house) when she got there she told them about the way it had started acting, and wanted them to take a look at it. They came out and hooked their code reader to it and said they would let her know. Now us not being wealthy or anything like that she told them that before you do any repairs with the exception of the recalls and the oil change to call so we can talk about price. She also told them about a leak. There was transmission fluid or power steering fluid on the plastic skid plate type thing under the engine compartment. They said ok and we went back home. Two days later they called and said that they found the leak, it was coming from the transmission cooler and a replacement cooler cost $900 did we want them to order it. No thank you! She said after that the next thing they said was it’s ready to be picked up. So I took her up their and she got her car. When we got home she made the comment that it still didn’t feel right. They charged $180 for an inspection they should have found something instead of a leak that she told them about. But moving on the recalls that needed to be done was the fuel pump relay. They had to disconnect the relay from the tippem( the circuit board) and add a new relay. The other recall to the best of my knowledge was a alt. Replacement, because some of the high quality ones they installed at the factory would malfunction and the diodes that change the current from ac to dc and step it down to a more usable voltage would malfunction and could possibly start a fire. I’m unsure if that was happening when we dropped the car off. But I know that sporadic voltage running through a system can cause all kinds of weird behavior. If the alt. Was the culprit for the poor operation then them replacing it should have corrected it. Unless the damage to other parts was already done. And should have been detected after repairs by a test drive or pulling codes….. it was not. So I told her to drive it a little and see if anything changes ( since the dealer is about a mile away I didn’t want to jump the gun on taking it back) the next day she said it did a little better and the next day she said it was hard to start that morning and it barely made it home. During this time when I got home from work I would look for the leak and I found it. It wasn’t coming from the $900 transmission/ac condenser it was coming out of the transmission vent tube.I replaced the filter and I haven’t seen any more oil yet. She emAils the dealership they said that if she brings it back that would check and see if it was something that they did and if it was they would cover it. But getting them to admit they were responsible is highly unlikely. Since she was having such an issue with the whole ordeal I told her that I would see what I could do. I hate doing it all day at work just to come home and do it some more. So I hook my code reader to it and got
permanent codes:
p0175- fuel system 2/1 rich
p0131- o2 sensor 1/1 circuit low
p0151- o2 sensor 2/1 circuit low
p0172- fuel system 1/1 rich
p0300- multiple cylinder misfire
p113D- o2 sensor 1/1 slow response (high frequency)
p0171- fuel system 1/1 lean
p0420- catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
and then it repeated the same codes for stored and again for pending.
o2 sensors can make it run lean and rich depending on the needs of the system. So I replaced the 02 sensors all 4 of them. The car ran like crap before I changed them and after I changed them it is a crank but no start situation. I pulled codes again this time I got all the logged codes plus
p0345 (pending) camshaft position sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 1
and it also showed the same code stored.
so I replace the cam shaft position sensor bank 2.
still a crank but no start situation.

 

The agreement that my wife had with the dealership was to do the recalls change the oil and find out what the problem is with the leak and anything else that was a problem and before they do any repairs to call and let her know the problem and a estimate to correct the problem. When she was on the phone with them the dealership said they had all the parts to do the recalls so we took it to them. When we got there along a sudden they had to order some of the recall parts. Ok well two day later when my wife calls to check on it they tell her that the transmission cooler is where the leak the leak is coming from and the part cost $900 all because the ac condenser is part of it. She said no don’t order it we can’t afford that. Right after that they said ok then it is ready for pick up! So $180 inspection to tell me false information Is kinda steep. Since I know that the leak was not coming from the cooler. I don’t know ow what kind of policy the local dealership has but throwing parts at it is not how you do it. It leads me to believe that they didn’t inspect it just charged her for it and it makes me wonder about the quality of their work.

 

Here are the codes I was short handing
p0175
p0131
p0151
p0172
p0300
p0113D
p0171
p0420
and after the o2 sensor change
all the same one plus
p0345

 

So do you know if it's spark or fuel you're not getting? I don't think with Dodge a faulty CPS will cause a no-start by itself. The codes are all over the place, and pointing to both banks 1 and 2. In the process of changing out the O2 sensors did you maybe unplug some items for access that maybe didn't get plugged back in? Such as the MAF sensor? Or did you maybe tug on a cable harness a bit to unplug one of the O2 sensors? I've read that there is an issue with the wiring harness for the Bank 2 CPS on the 3.6L. The harness is apparently too short and over time the wires are prone to breaking inside the insulation.

Do you have access to a scan tool (versus a code reader) with a datastream mode so you can monitor sensor values? Unfortunately if the engine won't start that limits the amount of data you can see on sensors, but you may at least be able to see if the CPS and CKP sensor are reporting data.

-Rod

 

2003 dodge ram 1500 4.7
ac problem

 

Replaced unit and it sqeels

 

Sho rod , I haven’t tested for spark or fuel yet I really haven’t had the time to mess with it. Are the durangos that prone to dropping all fire! But I will recheck the wire and make sure they are driven in the insulation. And unfortunately I only have a code reader it can do other things but not close to what a scan tool can do. A buddy of mine has a BA scan tool I’m trying to get in touch with him so maybe after work I’ll some news .

 

I don't have a lot of experience with Durangos, and even less with the Pentastar V6, so I'm not sure if they are prone to dropping spark or fuel. I did see on one of the Jeep forums that a few people posted about issues with broken wires to the Cam sensor and the accepted fix was to extend the wires when splicing the open connection.

-Rod