Hello Folks.
I have a 2011 Durango RT AWD with a worn out 5.7.
I have a 2014+ running BGE 6.4 Hemi long-block.
I am currently swapping them.

I am using parts from a 2012 Jeep SRT8 to fit the motor into the Durango (oil pan, gasket and sensors).
I have cleaned up the heads via a local machine shop.
I am using the block as is (crosshatch, bearings, old lifters, and cam were clean).
I am going to reuse ALL of the intake and exhaust parts from the 5.7 onto the 6.4 (no active runners).
I am using a JGC SRT8 stock vvt camshaft and not the truck camshaft.
I have removed all of the MDS lifters/solenoids and put plugs in the top.
I have tuned out the MDS function from the ECU (via Intune3) as I did on an old JGC 5.7 I used to have.
I am not trying to build a monster as I would have dropped in another 5.7 if I had one.
I am being cheap where I can and only replacing items that are deal breakers when you are this deep into an engine.
I do not care if I only have 360-410hp as I just want to drive my truck. I think those numbers are fantastic.

I am familiar with the platform but I do not know everything. I have owned cars from a 1985 Omni with a 1.6L Peugeot pushrod 2-barrel carbureted 4-cylinder engine to my first 6.1L hemi in a 2008 Charger SRT8.

I will update this post with issues and problems I run into.
I am not wasting my time. This is supposed to be a forum where we can all join in and share our experiences with the vehicles and projects we love.





-AS-

 

What about the ecu/pcm? Can you use the Jeep one or do you have to get the original flashed?

 

Hello,
I am using the Durango's ECU as it's the RT. I am using the Diablo Sport Intune3 to modify the MDS out and run the 91 tune (more fuel). I only mentioned the Jeep because the oil pan is different than what's used on the Ram 2500 and on the stock 5.7 (from what I gather). I will know more soon as the engine is about to come out.

Parts are showing up.



-AS-

 

I am starting to get all my parts.

The gaskets, no MDS lifters, HC oil pump, front/rear main seals, valve guide seals, SRT8 oil pan gasket, oil pan, MDS plugs and the SRT8 stock camshaft have shown up.





I got the BGE which seems to be a lower compression ratio version of the SRT8 version.

BGE

Good camshaft


Dirty Pistons but clean rollers on all the lifters!!

Nothing Bent - Nothing Broken!


It came with a great cam, no cylinder wall damage, no bent or damaged valve train and two broken exhaust studs on the passenger rear cylinder head.




A lifter I saved from the Jeep 5.7L. I only had 1 lobe on cylinder 1 that was damaged and just enough to cause a misfire. I checked the MDS solenoids and oil control valve and had no shavings. I took a chance and did the cam lifter swap myself. Sold the Jeep after 20k miles of driving it (140k to about 165k).


A host of parts that most people say they replace but never do.





The previous owner broke the transfer case switch (pressing the neutral button too hard I think). I took it apart and found one corner screw point was broken. I was able to JB weld that corner and screw it all back together. When I first took the part off, I found another problem. There was a second switch buried inside the console that was from a newer style setup (a tray on non controllable versions). The replacement switch was cut in half, then plugged in. The original switch was just placed on top like nothing was wrong. LOVE IT as it was not even connected to the car. The second switch was from a Ram and it has more control options than the original part. So far it does work with the connector and the car. I do not think it uses the other positions other than 4WD Auto and 4WD low.



I am going to work on cleaning the car and engine bay.





I obviously like the platform but those are V6 trucks. For those who do not know, the 8sp transmission wakes up the v6 far more than the 5sp of old. I wonder if that can be swapped?


-AS-

 

Forgot the oil pan...







I will have to get a freeze plug for the driver side (through the block) port for the dipstick. Oil dipstick goes through the pan on the new setup.

-AS-

 

Some nice hardware and working conditions you've got there!

I know on my Ram 5.7 that I have a few broken exhaust manifold studs. I haven't taken a look to see if they are going to be easily accessible, but I'm sure I there won't be a lot of space and I would be doing it with the heads still in the vehicle. Did your studs thread out pretty easily once you drilled enough for the EZ-Out, or were they a fight most of the way? I'm just trying to get my head in the right frame of mind on what to expect when I finally tackle it.

-Rod

 

Hello,

I used the kit with the heads off the car. I do know that you can get the green plate in there on the Rams going into the fender well. You can't do that on the Jeep/Durango suv's. I drilled (1/8th drill bit and guide) about 3mm into the studs and used one of the kits EZouts to first, lightly tap it into the hole, then with a ratchet, SLOWLY turn it out... Both of mine came out with no problems.

-AS-

 

Hello!

It's been raining and I have been working more so time for the swap fell to the background. I also do NOT have the heads back due to a couple of the exhaust valves that needed to be replaced.

The tired 5.7L hemi is out and as I was tearing it down, I did not find anything too off other than an MDS solenoid that was NOT seated all the way down and a few of the upper engine to transmission bolts being WAY loose.

Here are a few pictures of the process.


I had to replace the crushed front end. All I could find for a decent price was a front part with the chrome crosshatch. I am having it all repainted. Sadly, I found that I could have swapped the entire front end with the 2014-2019 for about $500 and kept the headlights. I do not care for the ones with the single LED. The 2024 I have has the dual LED. They look better but are not a direct swap to my auto adjusting factory projectors.

Almost time to pull it.

This engine ran but misfired. It was told to me that the oil pump had failed. More like the REAR main was just pumping it out the back. I would fill it up and it would have pressure. Not suddenly drip it all out the back...

No shavings on the VVT and the rollers on the lifters (MDS) 5.7L were ALL good. Just the MDS solenoid (on the lower right) and misfire on cylinder 1.
[img alt="I crazy how Dodge felt that plastic was the way to build these intakes. Its also amazing how much the aftermarket intakes have risen in cost (long before tariff). There is a vid of the E-Brock intake costing
$800... It lists for 1200+ now."]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgeforum.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/20250727_201031_e73a6936f27b6d8ad3100109affe5abc26 69ba03.jpg[/img]
I crazy how Dodge felt that plastic was the way to build these intakes. It's also amazing how much the aftermarket intakes have risen in cost (long before tariff). There is a vid of the E-Brock intake costing $800... It lists for 1200+ now.

I got 6.4L (blue) style fuel injectors on the standard 5.7L intake now.



The exhaust manifold bolts were extremely rust on the drivers side. I did get it off though.

The wheels are going to be powder coated bright silver. The current coating is flaking off near the center cap.

Engine cam out rather easily for those doing this for the first time.

I did have one of the dowel pins stuck in the clock. The BGE had both pins so I popped the one off.

Torque converter spun freely until I did a quick Dawn cleanup to the engine bay. I popped it out and will get new seals.

Wheels are gone. With 196K plus, I need pads especially in the front but all the cv boots were clean and not damaged.

6.4L valve covers do fit but require some modifications to the fuel and vac lines. I am painting the valve covers silver but will leave the block BGE black.

The torque converter output seals were not leaking but having that water in there rusted it up.

It looks like the variable runner stuff was intended for the 5.7L intake but never done. Just a sealed hole with a foam insert.

 

Ok... Looks like the new oil pan I scored for $90 is not going to work. I was already having issues with the 2012 Jeep SRT8 spec oil dipstick tube and this Dorman pan. I think I know why NOW.

All of the lower bolt holes did NOT line up so a new pan is on the way.

Also popped on some new mounts on both sides.

 

It's done.


How about a little red caliper paint. Why not?

New heads ready to go. It was VERY easy to install the exhaust bottom bolt. The top one will cut you if you are not careful.

Dipstick was too much of a problem.

I am using 5qts of Castrol 0W40 and 2qts of Valvoline VR1 for the zddp/breakin. I will be changing it all in about 1000 miles.

I love the style of the wheels but not the aluminum finish.

I am going back to stock red monochromatic look. Just test fitting the parts.

It will be all nice again eventually.

First run and almost immediately I got the P0172/175. It was the fuel injectors. I will hold onto them until I can get this thing properly tuned.

Until its finished, I am waiting on covering it up.

I have burned through the front inner wheel well liners driving it like this. I did install the black part of the front grill assembly (others are out for paint). This was to help protect the condenser and radiator.