06-08 Readylift leveling kit Ram 3rd Gen by redbeardmcg
#1
01-28-2008, 12:32 PM
06-08 Readylift leveling kit Ram 3rd Gen by redbeardmcg
Just installed my readylift leveling kit on my '07 QC 1500 4x4, and took plenty of pictures so here is a DIY writeup with pictures since leveling kits are such a hot topic on this forum.
Unfortunately the New England gods did not shine upon us today and it snowed so the truck and all of the suspension parts are FILTHY, but you should get the idea.
Here is the before and after. I tried to make the pictures as similar as possible but you get the idea anyway. DEFINATELY a noticeable difference.
The first step... Get all of the necessaries. The leveling kit for my truck is the readylift 66-1020 which I got at a local speed shop for $185 bucks. The other two items are of course not necessary (don't drink and drive, don't drink and work on your truck, don't drive a Ford truck, bla bla insert disclaimer <---- here).
Next, and this step MUST be followed EXACTLY. If you do not have the next part you CANNOT continue... Lay out all of your parts on a 1969 Dodge work bench
After the obvious (put the truck on the lift / jack it up (may be difficult with a floor jack), and take the rim off), now would be a good time to take the brake caliper off and move it out of the way. I hung mine off the frame with a coat hanger. If you don't do this you may rip the brake line out when you drop the control arm.
Next, remove the nut from the sway bar linkage.
Remove the lower strut assembly nut and bolt. You may have to tap the bolt out with a hammer.
Next, unscrew the nut from the upper control arm about 3/4 of the way, and then smack the spindle with a hammer. You don't have to kill the thing, just give it a decent whack and the spindle will drop. You can then unscrew the nut all the way. This is to make sure the spindle and rotor doesn't slam down on you when you remove the nut.
Then, remove the 3 nuts from the top of the strut tower
Although this step may not be necessary, I relocated the clip for the VSS wire, as the bounce stop may have crushed the wire if it was not moved.
Now you should be able to remove the strut. Although you don't have to completely remove it, it only takes a few seconds and makes your life a lot easier (you don't have to try to reach around behind it to tighten a nut). Simply slide the readylift spacer over the top, and install the factory nuts back onto the studs.
Next, slide the strut tower back up into its spot, and put the new nuts onto the studs.
After this, begin to re-assemble. I would start with the lower strut assembly bolt, and then the upper control arm bolt. In order to get the control arm close enough to put the spindle bolt back in, I used a crow bar. You may have to move the assembly back and forth and push in to pop the CV joint back into place if it popped out.
After this is back together, put the bushing and nut back on the sway bar linkage, re-install the brake caliper, and make sure everything is tightened to factory specs. You can now put your rim back on and do the other side. Once both sides are done, install the bumpstop brackets that came with the readylift kit. These can be somewhat difficult, but shouldn't be too bad. Here is a picture of the passenger side bumpstop.
This is what the passenger side looks like completely reassembled.
Simply repeat this procedure for both sides, bolt your rims back up, lower the truck back down, and marvel at your newly leveled truck!!
Before the lift I measured 37.5" from the ground to the top middle of the fender well with the factory 20" rims and tires, and after the leveling kit it is just over 40" They weren't lying when they said 2.5"!
When I finished I drove home doing 70-75 mph, and the ride is perfect. No bouncing, no vibrations, it is every bit as nice as the factory ride, but feels and looks like a bigger truck!
Ram3rdGen
Unfortunately the New England gods did not shine upon us today and it snowed so the truck and all of the suspension parts are FILTHY, but you should get the idea.
Here is the before and after. I tried to make the pictures as similar as possible but you get the idea anyway. DEFINATELY a noticeable difference.
The first step... Get all of the necessaries. The leveling kit for my truck is the readylift 66-1020 which I got at a local speed shop for $185 bucks. The other two items are of course not necessary (don't drink and drive, don't drink and work on your truck, don't drive a Ford truck, bla bla insert disclaimer <---- here).
Next, and this step MUST be followed EXACTLY. If you do not have the next part you CANNOT continue... Lay out all of your parts on a 1969 Dodge work bench
After the obvious (put the truck on the lift / jack it up (may be difficult with a floor jack), and take the rim off), now would be a good time to take the brake caliper off and move it out of the way. I hung mine off the frame with a coat hanger. If you don't do this you may rip the brake line out when you drop the control arm.
Next, remove the nut from the sway bar linkage.
Remove the lower strut assembly nut and bolt. You may have to tap the bolt out with a hammer.
Next, unscrew the nut from the upper control arm about 3/4 of the way, and then smack the spindle with a hammer. You don't have to kill the thing, just give it a decent whack and the spindle will drop. You can then unscrew the nut all the way. This is to make sure the spindle and rotor doesn't slam down on you when you remove the nut.
Then, remove the 3 nuts from the top of the strut tower
Although this step may not be necessary, I relocated the clip for the VSS wire, as the bounce stop may have crushed the wire if it was not moved.
Now you should be able to remove the strut. Although you don't have to completely remove it, it only takes a few seconds and makes your life a lot easier (you don't have to try to reach around behind it to tighten a nut). Simply slide the readylift spacer over the top, and install the factory nuts back onto the studs.
Next, slide the strut tower back up into its spot, and put the new nuts onto the studs.
After this, begin to re-assemble. I would start with the lower strut assembly bolt, and then the upper control arm bolt. In order to get the control arm close enough to put the spindle bolt back in, I used a crow bar. You may have to move the assembly back and forth and push in to pop the CV joint back into place if it popped out.
After this is back together, put the bushing and nut back on the sway bar linkage, re-install the brake caliper, and make sure everything is tightened to factory specs. You can now put your rim back on and do the other side. Once both sides are done, install the bumpstop brackets that came with the readylift kit. These can be somewhat difficult, but shouldn't be too bad. Here is a picture of the passenger side bumpstop.
This is what the passenger side looks like completely reassembled.
Simply repeat this procedure for both sides, bolt your rims back up, lower the truck back down, and marvel at your newly leveled truck!!
Before the lift I measured 37.5" from the ground to the top middle of the fender well with the factory 20" rims and tires, and after the leveling kit it is just over 40" They weren't lying when they said 2.5"!
When I finished I drove home doing 70-75 mph, and the ride is perfect. No bouncing, no vibrations, it is every bit as nice as the factory ride, but feels and looks like a bigger truck!
Ram3rdGen
