2002 Dodge Ram Exhaust Questions
Hey Guys, I got a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 quad cab, 4.7L v8. So far the mods I've done is a full K&N cold air intake system (plastic intake tube), BBK Performance throttle body, NKG platinum spark plugs, K&N oil filter, Flowmaster 40 Super Delta Flow muffler and a Magnaflow Heavy Metal series Hi Flow Cat system. Now looking to do headers and I'm sure as what's good brand name wise. I know I want stainless. Any information, tips, how installation went and mostly how it sounds would be most appreciated.
Gibson makes a great product...
as far as stainless, though.. I would, personally, rethink that..
they're cool to pop your hood and point to- and they change colors in that way that looks really cool after several heating cycles- but they kind of defeat the purpose of header..
without getting too deep in exhaust theory which has been discussed, ad nasium, on this forum, the key is using the heat to promote scavenging.. the headers are awesome in their purpose to allow a more free flow to escape the heads/chamber, but they are often hampered by cooling too fast.. cooler air is denser air.. so, the air cools and becomes heavier, which means the next pulse through the tubes has to push the other one out of the way.. there are absolute gains by using headers to open up the exhaust, but it's a 'three steps forward one step' back process by most header designs..
ceramic coating helps tremendously.. so does exhaust wrap.. the coating doesn't promote holding moisture, but the wrap does.. though the wrap insulates better than the coating..
the object of either is to insulate, but contrary to popular belief it's not to make the engine bay cooler- it's to allow the exhaust to remain as hot as it can.. that creates a vacuum, which works as a conveying system yanking the exhaust pulses out of the header, through the system, and out the tips..
the stainless look good.. but they often defeat the purpose of using headers.. if you're going to take those three steps forward, do yourself a favor and get ceramic coated or a roll of exhaust wrap and avoid taking that one step backward..
as far as stainless, though.. I would, personally, rethink that..
they're cool to pop your hood and point to- and they change colors in that way that looks really cool after several heating cycles- but they kind of defeat the purpose of header..
without getting too deep in exhaust theory which has been discussed, ad nasium, on this forum, the key is using the heat to promote scavenging.. the headers are awesome in their purpose to allow a more free flow to escape the heads/chamber, but they are often hampered by cooling too fast.. cooler air is denser air.. so, the air cools and becomes heavier, which means the next pulse through the tubes has to push the other one out of the way.. there are absolute gains by using headers to open up the exhaust, but it's a 'three steps forward one step' back process by most header designs..
ceramic coating helps tremendously.. so does exhaust wrap.. the coating doesn't promote holding moisture, but the wrap does.. though the wrap insulates better than the coating..
the object of either is to insulate, but contrary to popular belief it's not to make the engine bay cooler- it's to allow the exhaust to remain as hot as it can.. that creates a vacuum, which works as a conveying system yanking the exhaust pulses out of the header, through the system, and out the tips..
the stainless look good.. but they often defeat the purpose of using headers.. if you're going to take those three steps forward, do yourself a favor and get ceramic coated or a roll of exhaust wrap and avoid taking that one step backward..
Thanks for all the info, I didn't think of that. I'll take a look at them and try to get some prices.
Now all I could really use is shorty, non full tube headers that are 1.5'' tubing. I heard that headers change the air/fuel ratio enough that you need have a good tune done to your engine, mine being a 4.7L V8. My question is, will shorty, non full tube headers change this enough where I do need a tune? I already tried finding a chip that will do that and all I found was a Jet Performance stage 1 piggy back style chip. I heard they really don't do much at all but with all my mods I don't know if it will help me?
Now all I could really use is shorty, non full tube headers that are 1.5'' tubing. I heard that headers change the air/fuel ratio enough that you need have a good tune done to your engine, mine being a 4.7L V8. My question is, will shorty, non full tube headers change this enough where I do need a tune? I already tried finding a chip that will do that and all I found was a Jet Performance stage 1 piggy back style chip. I heard they really don't do much at all but with all my mods I don't know if it will help me?
they won't alter the a/f at all.. so long as you get the o2 sensor as close to the collector as you can.. there is no need for a tune using headers.. your PCM will make the adjustments, if any, just fine by itself..
all they do is allow less backpressure in the cylinder.. which basically means there is lessor resistance when the piston pushed up on the exhaust stroke, the valve opens and dang near all of the spent a/f rushes out.. on a system that uses manifolds or a system that promotes backpressure, the cylinder doesn't get all that spent junk out- which means it's still present on the downstroke (intake) and mixed on the compression- all of that accounts for a less powerful BOOM.. the more clean air/fuel you get in there, the better the powerstroke output.. the more spent junk the engine has to fight to release, the harder it has to work to achieve the same output..
it may be the difference of achieving the power to the terra you need at 2200rpm, as opposed to 2500rpm.. it doesn't work out exactly like that, but it's a good way to try to explain it..
the computer has no clue what's going in or coming out in terms of volume.. it only tastes the air before hand (IAT), and compares it to engine temperature, and reconciles it with o2 sensors post burn.. it adjusts minutely accordingly.. no worries..
all they do is allow less backpressure in the cylinder.. which basically means there is lessor resistance when the piston pushed up on the exhaust stroke, the valve opens and dang near all of the spent a/f rushes out.. on a system that uses manifolds or a system that promotes backpressure, the cylinder doesn't get all that spent junk out- which means it's still present on the downstroke (intake) and mixed on the compression- all of that accounts for a less powerful BOOM.. the more clean air/fuel you get in there, the better the powerstroke output.. the more spent junk the engine has to fight to release, the harder it has to work to achieve the same output..
it may be the difference of achieving the power to the terra you need at 2200rpm, as opposed to 2500rpm.. it doesn't work out exactly like that, but it's a good way to try to explain it..
the computer has no clue what's going in or coming out in terms of volume.. it only tastes the air before hand (IAT), and compares it to engine temperature, and reconciles it with o2 sensors post burn.. it adjusts minutely accordingly.. no worries..
I bought stainless online and had them drop-shipped to a coating shop 35 miles from me for a custom ceramic coat. Cost a bit more that way, but they've got a very thick coat inside and out.
Going on 6 years with them now and they still look about like the day I put them on...
Going on 6 years with them now and they still look about like the day I put them on...




