Frist, many thanks to Brandon Anderson and Matt99 for their posts. Brandon showed where to get em and Matt showed me how to put em in!

The Spindles: http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/x2-spi-dod-06.htm

The DIY post: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...e-install.html

Important afterthoughts:
1. ALWAYS HAVE A HELPER, even just a tool runner. Invaluable
2. USE THE PULLERS ON YOUR BALL JOINTS. Large size pitman arm and extra large ball joint seperator. I have one stock spindle that looks like a sophomore metal shop project from all the hammer dents I made.
3. USE SEVERAL JACKS. Almost a given, but 2 to 3 jacks/stands make your day go faster.
4. *YOU CAN USE YOUR STOCK BRAKE LINES. No extra cost.
5. *YOU WILL NEED TO SWAP THE BRAKE LINES. It is hard to explain, but in order for there to be enough slack, you will need to take off the hose from the frame to the caliper and swap it with the other side. I'll add a picture later.
6. BE CARFUL WITH YOUR BRAKE LINE BANJO BOLTS. I snapped one in half and am dealing with that today. Don't over-tighten.

Finally, the pics:

Before


After


Brake line swap


Stock setup: the banjo assembly bolted directly to the caliper is oriented so that the brake line exits toward the bottom. When you swap the lines, they are oriented as shown above.

 

Looks good buddy, now for some new meat!

 

Very nice! Good job man

 

very nice

 

I forgot to tell you that the brake line fittings are brass. Sorry about that.
Looks good. You should see it come to level when your alignment is done.

 

Got my alignment done this weekend as well as front shocks installed (Pro Comp ES9000). I can't believe how bad it felt before now, LOL. Rides better than new. I still have the rear shocks to put in but we're so close to Christmas that getting any wrench time away from the wife and stores is going to be next to impossible.

Seriously though, for all those on the fence about your truck's stance, get it leveled (lift or drop) and put on new shocks. That's freakin mandatory. I am back in love with this truck!

 

Did you have to get longer shocks or were they factory length?

 

If all you are doing is the spindles, you need stock-length shocks. The distance between the control arms does not change, as the lift is accomplished by moving the hub mounting point lower on the spindle. Using longer coils or a coil spacer will require longer shocks or a shock extender.

 

glad I found this, exactly what I been wanting to do for mine

 

so did u have to install the crossmembers too? or did u just use 3" spindles?