Synthetic or not
It should be noted the oil filter you choose will make the biggest difference in oil change frequency. The cheap filters are only good for 3k regardless of which oil you choose. M1 is designed to last 10k if you buy a good filter that will last just as long.
My vote is for Amsoil, mostly because I get it at cost from a guy I work with, but also because it is very high quality. I use it with a Wix filter and have never ever heard the "hemi tick" that has been referred to. I change the oil in April and in October and that's it. I've also heard really good things about Royal Purple, if you don't mind paying the high price.
The LAST oil I would use in a cylinder de-activation engine would be Amsoil. Non-MDS fine, but an oil that increases in viscosity with repeated heated/cooling cycles in a viscosity specific system just isn't a good idea, IMO...
Interesting. Care to explain further? I don't need to deal with this in my 2500 because it does not have MDS (thank goodness) but I am considering getting a 2008 Ram 1500 RC 2WD Hemi for a little speedster and was considering using Amsoil.
i have read nothing but very good things about Royal Purple motor oil. some articles i have read online have used royal purple and it freed up a few horse power but nothing that i think would be noticeable by the time it gets to the wheels but it was impressive.
Bought my 2007 Ram at 16,000 miles just a little over a year ago. Slapped synthetic in it the first chance I could get, and she runs like a champ. Shes at 30,000 now and doing just fine. I will never put Regular in, just my .02 Cents.
I just switched to Mobil 1 from cheapo dino oil. Also went with a Mopar filter instead of th Fram I had been using. So far I have seen better oil pressure. Never noticed a tick in my hemi though. It has 37K on it.
Seems that Mobil 1 has fallen out of favor here in the crowd though.
Seems that Mobil 1 has fallen out of favor here in the crowd though.
They changed their formulation to a cheaper, more mass used formula that does not hold up as well as it used to. I apologize that I do not have the specifics on that change however. Something to do with their base. I'm sure there is an oil pro in here somewhere that can shed more light on that subject.
Of course, it is still better than conventional oil, but if you are going to pay for synthetic, get the good stuff because it is not all created equal.
Of course, it is still better than conventional oil, but if you are going to pay for synthetic, get the good stuff because it is not all created equal.
You can buy the best oil in the world, but you should never let your oil filter go for more than 5kmi without changing it. Oil lasts longer than oil filters. So, you could essentially change Synthetic oil every 10kmi but do the filter every 5kmi. Or for 7500miles on oil, change filter at 3750miles.
I noticed no noise reduction as far as the Hemi tick goes. Synthetic utilizes the same viscosity oil. It has better wear protection, it's not a thicker oil like Lucas stabilizer that basically sticks to moving parts which would reduce chatter. So for a tick that's already there, it'll keep on ticking...
They changed their formulation to a cheaper, more mass used formula that does not hold up as well as it used to. I apologize that I do not have the specifics on that change however. Something to do with their base. I'm sure there is an oil pro in here somewhere that can shed more light on that subject.
Of course, it is still better than conventional oil, but if you are going to pay for synthetic, get the good stuff because it is not all created equal.
Of course, it is still better than conventional oil, but if you are going to pay for synthetic, get the good stuff because it is not all created equal.







