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Towing with a 4.7

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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:19 PM
  #11  
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

OldMoparMan, the trailer in question is only 3400# loaded. We specifically purchased the trailer based upon the lower weight. I wouldn't have even tried to tow a 5000 + pound trailer with this engine. I do agree though that a towing specific vehicle would be necessary for a larger trailer.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

ORIGINAL: rpounds

OldMoparMan, the trailer in question is only 3400# loaded. We specifically purchased the trailer based upon the lower weight. I wouldn't have even tried to tow a 5000 + pound trailer with this engine. I do agree though that a towing specific vehicle would be necessary for a larger trailer.
My reading comprehension sucks today....

Even at 3400 lbs, the torque band for the 4.7 engine is higher in the rpm ranges, unlike theHemi, or any other overhead valve engine. I agree that using a Superchips programmer will help tp a degree, just due to changing some of the shift points and computer programming, but likely, you're not going to have the truck feel like a completely different vehicle.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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I thought about a Superchips. The ability to adjust shift points as well as the slight bump in performance would be nice. However, those guys over there at Superchips haven't seen fit to design a unit for the 04 with the 4.7 engine. I've read a lot of guys hollering about that, but Superchips ain't listening.[:@]
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

ORIGINAL: rpounds

I thought about a Superchips. The ability to adjust shift points as well as the slight bump in performance would be nice. However, those guys over there at Superchips haven't seen fit to design a unit for the 04 with the 4.7 engine. I've read a lot of guys hollering about that, but Superchips ain't listening.[:@]

I don't understand that either..... They're losing good money.

Actually, for what it's worth, with the plu-n-play superchips model (scanner combo) you can't adjust the shift points on the trans on your own, like you can with some Chevy/Ford trucks.

By adding a different program, (I think they're "towing", 87 octane, or 91 octane) it changes the shift points to THEIR specifications. Better then stock, i'll give it that.... (firmer)

You WOULD benefit with at least a drop in K&N, and exhuast, IMHO. With my 3000 lbs trailer, I barely know it's behine me, unless it's a hill so big that no matter what, the truck is going to bog down to some degree, and start searching for a lower gear and racing the engine.

Either way: Good luck.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #15  
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

an old post that might be of interest:
====
High rolling resistance tires
can be the cause of early downshifting on hills.

17 horsepower is needed on a 5500 lb 2nd Gen Ram with tires of rolling resistance 0.007 to roll the four tires at 75 mph.

59 horsepower is needed on a 5500 lb 2nd Gen Ram with tires of rolling resistance 0.04 to roll the four tires at 75 mph.

Someone not afraid of math
and a stopwatch
can actually test their own truck for both
tire rolling resistance and aerodynamics
with this Java applet at an archived web page:

http://web.archive.org/web/200408030...DownCalcs.html

Divide the 34.5 square feet of a 2nd Gen Ram
or 35.1 square feet of a 3rd Gen Ram
by 10.8 to convert square feet to square meters

The Cd you find this way
should be in the range of 0.38 to 0.53
depending on the model year of the pickup, 4x4, tonneau, bug guards, etc

The rolling resistance will be anywhere from
0.007 from the best ribe style highway tire with half the tread worn off,
to 0.04 for 'mudder style tread' off road tires

You can get even more accurate results by running the test at two different weights, like with only the driver, then with 1500 lbs in the bed.
====
Note: you can also run the test with your particular trailer attached to your truck's hitch to get the overall rolling resistance and aero Cd of your 'rig'

The basics of the horsepower, torque and gearing
needed to tow loads and climb hills
are well covered in this older .pdf format article for 18 wheel truckers:

http://www.etrucker.com/content/downloads/ccj0302.pdf
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Very interesting reading Hank. Thank you.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Well, I took the plunge today. I went to a 4 wheel drive specialty shop and put a deposit down on the 4.56 gears. The gears are on order now and should show up in 4 or 5 days. Then I'll have to take it in to have them installed. The price is $1368 out the door - not exactly cheap, but better than the other two prices that I rounded up.

There happened to be another customer in the shop getting some exhaust work done while I was there. I go to chatting with him about the gear swap. He did the same thing to his Ford F-150 with a 4.6 liter. His stock gearing was 3:54 (I think that's what he said). He said the difference was night and day. He couldn't say enough good things about them. Anyhow, they will be installed in plenty of time for our next camping outing, so I'll report back what I have found after that trip.

Oh, and I also reset the MPG computer. So, I'll see what the mileage is before and after the change with my normal daily commute back and forth to work. I know the MPG computer probably isn't all that accurate, but at least it will be an apples to apples comparison.

Ron
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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dont know if it was mentioned above seeing that theres more words than i like to read on a sunday before a football game, and that this thread is a half year old and his motor either works or is blown by now. But you make want to look into a tranny temp sensor, maybe even a deeper pan. Also replace the clutch fan with an efan (2-450bucks) clutch fan can take up to 15 (have heard people say 20) HP from your motor, efan will pull more cfm at low speeds (like during an incline) and will still give the same cfm at speed, some will even do better than the clutch at hwy speed. But a gear change is def in order, and yeah 4.56 is the way to go, youd notice a diff with a 4.10 but youre better off going with the lower 4.56. last but not least change your diff fluid, i use amsoil 75-140 severe gear for the rear, and for the front i cant think right now, 90 something, supposed to last 100k mile but i drive through too much water to risk that length.

btw 5k more for a cummins and you past??????????????????? my god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i spend 6 grand a year in gas with my 4.7 had i realized that id have bought a used (dlr had a 2500 with 26k miles) diesel, but it was white. Plus with a diesel you get the melodic sound of the engine.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:52 PM
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

This is an interesting post... I do not tow anything with my 06 ram 4.7 (one reason i am debating getting a charger r/t ..i don't use it as a truck) but i don't like how my truck down shifts even going up slight inclines [:@]... it gets annoying after a while and i know in the long run its making me pay for it at the pump (but hey i only get 13mpg in town and 18 on the highway anyways[>:]). It would be nice to fix but since i want to get a charger im not going to spend any more on the truck.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 05:53 AM
  #20  
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Default RE: Towing with a 4.7

the new 2008 model year 4.7 V8
is rated at more torque with dual sparkplugs
and the transmission is supposed to have
manual over-ride shifting

the complaints in this post
indicate why the customers want this
...the frequent downshifting on hills really annoys some people.

however, when an engine is closely matched to load
(for fuel economy)
it is just a fact of life that it will need to downshift on hills

but another way of looking at it is
that it is always good to have more than one overdrive gear
that is just a little below the top gear ratio
so that on the downshift the rpms do not change any more than necessary
 
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