The '95 Dakis 2nd gen (low mpg 318, 15.5 is the best this one has ever seen), but the newer onesget better mpg and more hp...

 

Rented a TrailManor and Towlite (made by Hi-Lo)both prior to purchase (both were approx.22 foot. I think the2619is similar to the one I rented). TrailManor was a pain in the *** to set up and leaked in a rainstorm at the top seal. TrailManor also towed poorly (with both the Dakota and a borrowed GMC dually). The trailManor was a little lighter and overall solid though. The roof leak killed it as it had one chance and blew it. Have had the Towlite now for 3 years of heavy use with NO issues whatsoever and will be buying a longer one in 1-2 yearsas I now also have the Ram (I bought it to towa toyhauler during the winter)along with the old Dakota. Getting tired of replacingtransmissions in the old Dak.

 

I averaged 10 mpg pulling a double waverunner trailer with 2 4 stroke yamaha's (less than 2500 lbs). And I have 3.92 gears. Acceleration uphill was terrible, I had the same problem with the trans not up-shifting in to OD until I let off the gas pedal.

 

I wish some of you guys would get on another forum I use. Dodgetalk has a Poll going right now as to which is the better motor 4.7 or 5.7. There are a couple of yahoos over there claiming that their 4.7's tow as good as a Hemi and in some cases better.
I just want some of what they are taking...

 

I went by a local auto shop this afternoon and they said going up in gearing will decrease my towing rating and they wanted 1000.00.

Anyone know of a reputable "chain or franchise" auto shop that can do the job for under 400.00? I live in the Dallas TX area.

 

A Cummins would help

 

Look for a drive train specialist,one that deals with front difs,rear difs,trannys,drive shafts etc. Or off road shops,most 4by4's need steeper gears after lifting and bigger tires. you want numerically higher gears, for a lower final drive ratio. 3.00:1 is a numerically lower gear than a 4.10:1, but the 3.00:1 is a higher final drive ratio. get it?

 

Don't go near those yahoos, going up in gearing INCREASES you towing rating. When you take a stock 1500 and add the TOW PACKAGE they automatically give you 3.92's over the stock 3.55's

I had mine (front & rear) done plus an Auburn LSD installed for $400 (labor only) at 4 Wheel Parts/Performance in Orlando, Fl. As I said before you are gonna spend about $200 for the rear 4.10, another $75 for a master install kit (don't cheap out on a minor kit just to save $30-$40) which will include new bearings (preferably Timko's), etc. I'm guessing install of rear gears only should be no more than $200. That should put you in at just under $600.
A web search shows a Dallas, TX. store at:
1530 Inspiration Drive Dallas, TX 75207 Manager: Drew Dorbortiz 214-672-1760

 

I pulled a UHaul car dolly (tandem wheel 14 footer) with my 06 4.7 QC, loaded with my two kids, wife, dog, a bed full of luggage, and my 07 Mustang on the trailer loaded with clothes etc. from West Texas (3 miles from Mexico) to Fayetteville NC. All the way doing between 65-70 and avereaged 11-13 mpg. Granted I wasn't towing a huge box that the wind can't cut around, but the car weighs 3600lbs and i'd guees the trailer was about 1100 lbs so combined it was about 5000 with all the crap we hauled.
The 4.7 did absolutely wonderful in my opinion and I was able to stay in OD almost the whole way.

 

The plot thickens... I do have the factory tow package on my ride however in the glove box there is a piece of paper glued in that has paint codes, engine specs etc and one of the catergories is rear axle. Says 3.55.

I found this little goodie whilst searching for my window sticker, which i didn't find.

So is there another place to look to see what is actually in the differential?