i changed out my water pump and t-stat and a week later fixed my radiator profesionally. you 100% do not need to take off the serpentine belt to get to your t-stat. my t-stat is toward the bottom of the truck in the ose coming from the radiator to the engine. a clamp, 2 bolts and youre done for that. the water pump was a bit*h to get to! that was a fun days work too.......[:@]...my radiator actually had so much pressure that it started blowing out the plastic sides and pushing back the clamps on the side...it was BAD. but got that fixed for like 80$ an now everything great, runs a lot cooler, new water pump and t-stat and fixed radiator. also NEVER use that stop leak. that was my mistake too, from that day i will NEVER use that sh*t again. i put stop leak in, and that night the truck had all of its problems!!!!!

 

Thanks for all the help and replys guys.
I'm begining to think your right about that Stop Leak stuff mmstar23
Yep a quick fix is something most people want and it did do the job but...............all the resr of the stuff that goes with it is a bind!
I think that when I get all this stuff off, I'll stick a hose into the block and run it till it comes out clean and flush the block as well.
I know I won't be able to get to the heater without pressure so will leave well alone.
Hopefully, when I button it all back up, she will run sweet again?
Al.

 

Just to throw another idea in, it could also be the fan clutch! For it to cycle the way that was described I would go with that or the t-stat could be sticking because of the stop leak.

 

Any views on how to test for a screwed fan clutch???
Al