I dought it becuase my uncle owned it and he wont even pick up a screw driver to tighten a loose bolt. But is it noticeable or is it hidden behind a black box. Oh and just a question on the wiring, is it possible to get to the grommet that the wires go through to get from the cab to the door. I want to run new speaker wires through the black tube instead of having it visable.

 

it could be done, but it requires a lot of grease... ELBOW GREASE!! HAHA?? ok, sorry. corny. hahaha. yeah dude, you can do that ****. just find the tube behind the glove compartment and get it done. easy as **** i suppose! but it would get you breaking a sweat. good luck! wait, are you SURE here has the infinity in there or no? i mean, i know youre definitely not dumb, but you never know, you couldve overlooked it?

 

oh yea it does, has infinity logos on the doors and 7 speakers. Im now wondering how the shop put my new head unit to give a signal to the factory amp since the amp doesn't have RCA's.

 

Well, I'm currently in the process of installing a high-end system in our new 2008 LaramieQuad Cab. From the research I've done, the stock head unit, and amp have a can-bus style interface like it did on my CLK mercedes. What this means, is that they're integrated into the electronics of the vehicle more than a typical stereo. This allows a lot of other functions, such as turn signal and door ajar chimes, bluetooth from the U-connect on my rear view mirror so I can use my cell phone hands-free and so on. The stock Infinity amp is fed the line signal from the stock head unit just like a regular stock stereo would have speaker leads coming out of it. The stock amp just amplifies that, and has a built in crossover, to send more targeted sound range to each speaker in an attempt at giving the listener better sound quality.

From what I've read, the factory Infinity amplifier is located behind the passenger side airbag in the dash, and is accessible when you remove the glove box. The amp itself is a 14 wire out 5.1 logic amp, and the speakers to my understanding are rated at 2 Ohms. I've also got the 7-speaker infinity sound, and on the 07 and 08 if I'm correct, the dash speakers are 3.5" for the L and R as well as center channel speaker, and the front door speakers are mid-bass drivers 6x9". The amp itself has an activecrossover that blocks high frequency from reaching the stock wiring loom to the front door speakers; so even if you replace them with a 6.5" component set with a tweeter you will only get output for the woofer.

The rear speakers are a 6.5" 2way coaxial speaker with a custom baffle that makes it more difficult to replace the speakers. You'll basically have to drill new holes, and trim the speaker cover down to fit them over new speakers, but they would be worth it.

My plan is to replace the Left and Right dash speakers for now with Infinity Kappa 3.5" as they're selectable impedence.Meaning, you can physically turn the tweeter 90 degrees left and right to select 4Ohm or 2Ohm load (original equipment is designed around 2Ohm for the infinity sound amp).

Ohms are the measure of resistance the speaker driver itself gives the amp, so a 2Ohm being replaced with a 4Ohm would make them sound quieter, and would underpower the amp on that channel which it wasn't designed to do. I was then going to replace the door speakers with a 2-piece component set by building adapter plates and a speaker baffle out of fiberglass and 3/4" MDF board you typically see subwoofer boxes made out of. This would give them a much more musical sound, and decrease the amount of door rattle when I line the door cards with sound deadening like dynomat.

Your best bet if you're planning to run new speaker wire period, would be to run it ALL at once. The dash appears to be a 2-piece unit, and you can honestly do away with the center channel speaker if you plan to bypass, or upgrade the factory infinity amp down the road since it's highly unlikely your replacement will be a 5.1 decoding amp for use of center channel. This would allow you to run a 4-channel amp and provide a lot more power to the front dash speakers and rear door speakers. Another option may be to run the front speakers in parallel so they're also in 2Ohm on an aftermarket amp, and the rear door speakers with an additional set of 3.5" speakers that you can toss under the rear seat to be pulled out for a BBQ or something similar and give the backseat listeners more sound stage if there was a case.

I'm planning to build a dual 10" subwoofer enclosure under the rear seats, and finally decided on the Phoenix Gold subwoofers, since they require a very very tiny sized enclosure for optimum performance for sound quality. I'm not too much into the huge boom sound systems like I once was in High School, so my focus is on sound quality. For now I'll just be adding the subs and an electronic EQto clean up the signal from the OEM amp till I make the big change to full aftermarket electronics. For now, it's just too nice taking advantage of the 1-year free Sirius, Bluetooth on my phone, and steering wheel controls that I'm not ready to part with.

You might find these links helpful as I've been doing my homework for almost 2 months trying to decide exactly what I want:
http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/Merc...e=QL-C1DQC110P

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/...hlight=c2r-chy

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=904

Some teaser pics of test-fitting the top-mounting depth of the subwoofers and subwoofer amp for the setup I'm planning to build:

 

Damn that amp is massive. Heres my 12" type r and alpine amp.
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What really want to do is get another alpine mrp m500 amp and two more alpine mrp f300 amps. So ill have 4 amps under the rear seat with a dual alpine type r's in a portedbox behind the driver seat. Boston acoustics throughout and 2 5 farad capacitors. I really wan the alpine ipod only head unit. Since I really dont have money to do it all at once, I want to run all the wires and power cables now then hook them up everytime i get another amp. But in the end the driver side rear seat will be taken out to get that boom that i want. And is there another optio to dynamat since $170 for 3 sheets is NOT tempting?

 

well, doing all the old school SPL decibel drag-off, we used to use a roofing waterproofer called water and ice that was usually sold in huge rolls at lowes / home depot / HQ (when they were still in business). it essentially was the same material, served the same purpose even though it wasn't the intended use. that way we could line the entire enterior of a box van to be loaded with a dozen or so 15" subwoofers.

the pre-wiring like you suggested is exactly what i'm planning to do. i'm probably going to be adding two 4-channel amplifiers for the mids and highs down the road along with eithera McIntosh head unit, or nakamichi depending on the price i can find either for. one 4-channel will run the midbass woofers of the component sets, and the other 4-channel with run the highs.

 

to answer the OP's question, the infinity amp (i believe) is rated at 200 watts output, 5.1 decoder built-in.

So if I had to take a guess, the system would probably be broken down into 4 channels with a center bridge from the left and right of the front channels. the front door "woofers" 6x9" speakers probably get fed 45 watts each, leaving 110 watts for the other 5 speakers - 25 each speaker and 10 for the center.

 

like you said the factory amp has the 5.1 sound processor on it so I guess my two 12's will be over powering the mids and highs for a little while. Hey I'm 16 so extra bass is perfect for now until I realize sq is way better. Right now my buddies and I are argueing about who's truck will bump harder at school so even better for me