i was wondering what do you guys think the powergain would be if i used this kit on my truck with every thig else stock. I was thinking i could install this kit with the motor still in. I can't quite tell if the front of the bottom of the motor is still accesable. does any one know if you can fit the piston and rod in from the bottom of the block with the crank out. I am from what i feel very good at building motors but i am not sure on how the inside of this block is built. it shouldn't take anylonger than 12 hours with a lift. all you would have to do is move the tranny/transfer case back about 4 inchs pull the pan, brake down the front of the motor to get to the timing chain and install that would be simpe remove and install of parts. I do this kinda of stuff on a dailybasis and half of the stuffthat iwork with on aircraft is by feel. I usualy can't evan see it what i am working.so basicly i am looking for input from everyone on what would be needed. the only thig i can see right know would be doing rig gaps but other than that i can't see anything major. please help i would like the most responses i can get to make a sure i make the right choice on what to do.

Thanks in advance

http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=968

 

You can do this with the engine in the truck.

 

my only issue is 1) doing ring gaps 2) if i can fit the pistons up through the bottom of the block and 3) how much room i have up front by the cross member for the front two pistons. this is just a thought of the possability of doing it this way. if these three things are not an issue than with some one helping me that is good with tools. I woud have no problems doing this over a weekend with a lift(wich i have acess to) what do you think? I value every one's opinion

 

While it looks like a good do-it -yourself kit. I wouldn't even consider trying to do a good job on this with the engine in your truck. Proper fitment of the parts is crucial to a properly built engine, especially if you are Even considering adding any serious hp to it later on with bolt-ons.

Proper main and rod journal fitment is critical to clearance, ring end gaps MUST betoleranced and trimmed for expansion if necessary. If you're going to leave it stock, why go to all the expense.

Once you taken all the time to put all this together right, then the rotating assembly should be fully balanced

Find another block and set it up in that, THEN drop it in. While your at it, don't forget the heads---now we're starting to talk serious HP.

This wouldn't be a bad start to building an budget minded racing engine, but start right, do it right.

Oh Yah the Golden Rule-----CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS

Grimey hands and bearings don't mix

 

I assumed you were dropping the pistons in from the top. Unsure about the front two and while I have not seen someone put in pistons from the bottom. The one issue I can see is pounding them in. From the top you have a nice flat top of the piston to hit/push on.

 

see these are types of replies i needed, i have built 20-30 motors on a stand, none while in a car. i guess i was getting a head of my self. the idea was good just not well thought out i guess. since this idea is about dead. who is puting out a good set of heads for the hemi, or what do yu all reccomend for a cam and heads combo. there are not to many choices out there for a hemi