Heya,

I've several issues I've to resolve relatively soon.

1. Change front brake pads
2. Power steering hose is leaking due to a crack, although the people that inspected my truck didn't tell me which (only that it was a return line). I'm probably going to end up having someone fix this one.
3. Driver side mirror cracked.

On the first issue, I've always changed the brake pads myself, but this time I ran into issues when attempting it. I got the tire off and tried to remove the caliper (not the caliper adapter). I took off the caliper bolts but the caliper wouldn't budge at first. I kept wiggling the caliper and eventually had it moving along the rotor axis and up about 1/4 inch, but there appears to be something blocking the removal. I wound up stopping what I was doing (in frustration).

Am I supposed to bleed off the brakes first, before removing the caliper? I'm now following the service manual and the only thing I found that I didn't do was have the brake pedal held down (never had to do that before). Also, in the ********* forums, someone mentioned something about trying not to break the ABS system when compressing the brake cylinder with a C-clamp. I didn't see anything mentioning that in the service manual.

2nd issue: Supposedly there's an issue with the power steering hosing (clamps or hose cracks). I never found out which hose it was affecting (in general). I can find out which hose is leaking on my truck, but it will probably require either a leak test kit or a thorough cleaning of the underside where the hoses are. I failed state inspection because of this hose, so I'm under time constraints to get this fixed. Of all these issues, this is the one that I can't seem to figure out (where its leaking from), as I wasn't aware that there are like 4 hoses associated with the PS unit.

3rd issue. I've found a place locally where I can buy a new mirror (and not a whole mirror unit pair, like I've been reading about that the dealer requires...freaking ridiculous!!). My mirrors are heated, though. Anyone have any experience with replacing broken mirrors that are heated?

I've searched the forums and have found some related posts but nothing that actually mentions my current issues.

TIA for future responses.

 

I just did the front pads on my truck this week, so maybe I can help.

You need to remove the two caliper bolts from the back of the hub assembly (they're something like 15/16"). Once they are out, you should be able to pull the caliper assembly off the rotor. It may take some muscle, your rotors may have high grooves on the outer edge that are catching the pads and preventing them from sliding off.

Once removed, you have to remove the two caliper slide bolts, which I believe are 13mm. With those removed, use a beefy flat head screwdriver and pry the mounting bracket away from the caliper. I came in from one of the ends, right about in the middle of the mounting bracket.

With the mounting bracket removed, you will need to pop the old pads out. Mine were pretty corroded, so I had to tap them out with the handle of my ratchet.

Once the pads are out, remove the old shims, and install in reverse order. Make sure to clean up the caliper assembly, and grease your slides and slide bolts. That really seemed to help the soft pedal feel that I was experiencing prior to replacing my pads. You could tell the caliper was sticking, because my outer pads were just about shot, but the inners still had a decent amount of material.

BTW, you'll need to compress the pistons before the new pads will fit back on the rotor. And it never hurts to do a few bleed offs when you do brakes, to keep the fluid fresh. I read somewhere that brake fluid is only good for two years...not sure if that's true, but it doesn't hurt to keep some fresh fluid circulating in your lines.

Oh yeah, and when doing my brakes I noticed the leaky PS box you're talking about. That'll be my next project. Mines pretty saturated, and there was a drop of fluid hanging from one of the lines. I also appears my reservoir is either low or just about empty, as there wasn't much fluid in there. Unfortunately it takes ATF+4, and I didn't have any laying around to put in, so I'll be getting some soon.

Have fun,

Matt

 

I just wanted to put my 2 cents worth in. I am not a certified mechanic but I have been doing mechanic work for years. When compressing the piston on a vehicle with anti lock breaks, it can damage the anti lock brake system if you try to force fluid through it backwards. You should loosen the bleeder before pushing the piston back in. This will cause you to loose some fluid but will keep you from damaging your abs.

 

Just had my mechanic fix a PS leak this morning. It just started leaking a few days ago. All it needed was a clamp on the return hose. It took more time to put it on the lift than to fix it.

 

Yeah, that's the hose I have leaking. It looks like the crimped clamp just ain't cutting it no more and I could just install a new clamp to fix the problem. We'll see.

 

I paid my mechanic to fix these items.

The PS hose needed to be replaced (it was cracked pretty bad).

The mirror I ordered from Safelite ($49). It looks to be a stock-like piece...we'll find out on Saturday. They were out of stock of the heated ones. Will pick up on Saturday and install. I will update this thread with anything that occurs that is out of the ordinary.

I hope to God I don't get pulled over, as the mechanic removed the damn inspection sticker...I suppose I could tape it to the windshield for now.

 

I just fixed my PS hose last nite. I degreased the PS box where all the fittings come in. I'll keep my eye on it and see if it stays clean.

$.50 clamp and we're in business! (I hope)