you know your making this process harder than it should be....

 

oh, sorry. i just want to be an informed buyer. ok, ill stop bothering you guys about used subs. i justed started going to a car audio forum and that where im going to annoy the heck out of them
btw, do i really need this chrysler interface if i want to buy a new stereo

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SVI6...Interface.html

can i find it cheaper somewhere else even with the 50% off crutchfield gives?

 

Jeez, Bullet - you are correct! WOW man.....just go with name brand stuff and you are usually safe! You can go on line and compare head units from Crutchfield and many other sites.

What I like about CF is that they provide all of the brackets, harnesses, brackets, etc.....along with the equipment. They also have a 1-800 number for questions just like you are asking us! And they are the experts.

I plan on doing separates for the fronts. Get a 6.5" woofer for the doors and put a flush mount tweeter in the triangular shaped plastic piece at the bottom of the A pillar in the door. I can paint the flush mount tweeter grille and it will hardly be noticed. I can put the same thing in the back doors as well. Problem solved........

Remember a circular woofer is more efficient than an oval woofer in a 6x9 for example. It is better to have an even distance from the cone to the edge of the speaker all of the way around. Just my 2 cents...

 

im just saying man. i think you got plenty of info. just go with the speakers, subs, and radio you want and like. its your truck.

 

yes and no do you need the xsvi interface.. the newer dodge trucks have no switched accessory behind the radio. new head units need two power supplys. One constant to hold memory and a switched accessory one that is on with car and off with car. these trucks the switched accessory is data controlled by the computer. now you can tie into the cig lighter or other power ports if they are switched accessory and then not buy the harness. can't tap into the ignition on the newer trucks since they are resistance based. for my dad's 06 i did a radio in that and almost all his stuff was constant power so i used that harness.. granted my employee price was like 20 bux for the harness lol.

mad ez install for it tho. Um use a multimeter check ur cig lighter and constant power port. if they read 12v with key on and 0 with key off don't worry just buy a 706502 plug. if they read 12v all the time then get the harness.

check any circuit city's in ur area they are 50% off atm.... how do i know... ex-CEI guy from there...


if you are doing subs dude i definately recommend going with the adapter plates and 6.5"s. the bass will be in the subs so get the better mids/highs from the 6.5".

If you post up specs from the subs and amps you are looking at.. not just what someone told you but find a manufacturers website and find the subs and amp i'll more than gladly look them over for you without a problem.


the sub the memphis one doesn't sound bad. I've always like memphis. i'm very leary when people say "1800 Watts" or some really high number and are selling it cheap... a real 1800 watt amplifier that does it with a low total harmonic distortion level and is rated in terms of RMS wattage is well over a thousand bux. a good rule of thumb for amps is if it has the power rating in big *** numbers on the amp itself... stay far far away. notice all good brands, JL,MTX,Rockford,Kicker,Boston Acoustics, POLK. none of their amps have wattage numbers on the unit. just the model number.. the power specs are provided to you on what is known as a birthsheet which is signed by a tech at the factory. it will list THD ratings, rms output ratings tested, and expected.

I would agree with RSS about doing component sets in the front with a seperate tweet and woofer but only if you run an external amplifier for them.. component sets usually don't really show their stuff unless getting pushed properly and with the extra price of components if you buy them you want the best out of them... you can flush mount them in the a pillar or in front of the dash there are cut outs for tweets for trucks that had factory infinity.. another ez install there as well.

 

thanks again. you seem very informed with your car audio. did you type all this up yourself because its a lot of good information. remind me to ask you for help the next time im looking at car audio

 

it's all me buddy.. i've been into car audio since i was 16 and worked in Car audio since I was 18 and i'm 20 now. It's just a hobby and i'm using it as a part time job to make money through college. unfortunately it bit me in the azz here because I was a Car electronics guy for CC and well we all know about that. prolly gonna go to best buy or a local custom shop.. who knows.. but yea man any questions and i'll answer. helps we have purtty much the same truck so i mean i'm always thinking what I want to do with mine and that can just be ideas for you as well.

 

If you need to get alot for your money then go to Walmart. They carry decks ,subd and amps and they should do you just fine.

 

Good job, Ben! I used to work in car audio as well doing installs, etc....but that was like 20 years ago!! I had a kick a$$ system in my 1990 Geo Tracker 4x4 - LOLOLOL.....see it was a long time ago. Nowadays with all of the harnesses out there, it is so easy to do instead of having to cut wires and solder and splice, etc....

BTW, for my money, the Boston Acoustics are some of the best separates out there....a little pricey, but sweet sounding....

 

yea harnesses make it nice but on some newer cars they can be pricey. the xsvi harnesses are nice which is what these trucks use. just takes care of the no accessory.. and it keeps RAP (retained acc power) where ur stuff stays on till the doors open.I love working on cars it's just a hobby of mine. unfortunately prolly twenty years from now or less aftermarket audio will be a thing of the past. new cars are just getting to wickedly expensive to put stuff in.. take a new mazda 6 for example. the dash kit alone is 250 bux. not to mention kids these days (wow i said kids these days) don't even care about quality. I can't tell you how many times when I sold and someone wanted subs they'd take one look at the cheapest dual 12" set up and they'd be like "f that" and then i'd tell htem well you need an amp, wiring, a good radio to make it worth it and well you get the picture.

Yea i think when i do stuff in my truck i'm going to pick up a set of the Boston SPZ 6.5's. they are a two way component set but the sick thing is the mid woofer has just about one inch of xmax excursion. which makes for some killer midbass... especially if you take the time to baffle them in and create like a mini enclosure in the door... Prolly do those and a set of mid line 5.25's in the back and get one helluva four channel for them.. but that's a ways off I do have money to do what i want with audio but I don't want to overextend myself..