My truck came with a factory tow package and I was at an rv dealer and he looked under the truck and said I am in great condiction. But I think I will get a second opion...

 

towing 9200 lbs or less will require a class IV weight distributing hitch. Thats what you need to tow UP TO the factory limitations. keep in mind that puts your GCWR at roughly 15,000 lbs. thats alot of weight if you are not used to towing heavy loads with a pickup.

 

Something else to keep in mind is "what if something fails?" My trailer brakes failed (wire got pinched) and I didn't know about it until somebody decided that they really, really wanted the lane in front of me.

I was on truck brakes only, and there was.... a noticeable difference. 9200lbs pretty much maxes everything out and you have no reserve capacity in case something fails. My personal preference is to keep everything at 80% or less of spec, GVWR, GCWR, etc. to have a little bit of safety margin.

 

Run away! Run away! Nobody can tell just by a quick look what the truck ratings are. The dealer is there to sell and unfortunately there doesn't seem to be anything legally stopping them from selling "too much" trailer.

Get the actual vehicle ratings for your *specific* vehicle (engine, trans, axles, options) and go to a scale and weight both the truck and the trailer as it would be if you were camping (or add weight to the measured value to compensate). A reputable dealer should either have a scale on-site or let you take the trailer to get weighed. "Your truck will tow this trailer no problem!" = "I'm getting my money, why do I care if you are unsafe and get in an accident?"

 

Heres what I would do, and have done before, right when I got my truck.

I borrowed a dump trailer, and decided to do some yard work. I loaded up some cutting, a bunch of grass, and a few chunks of concrete. Took it to the dump. I got used to how the truck handled; what my acceleration and stopping power was. When I got to the dump, I got my weigh sheet, and it was 7000 lbs behind. I knew I felt comfortable with that. If somebody needs help towing something, volunteer. Just get comfortable towing different loads, in different scenarios.

Ive towed 8500 lbs travel trailer. That 800 lbs over my limit. The truck did great, but if I were to lose trailer brakes, i would have been in trouble. TEST TOW BEFORE YOU BUY!!!! If your towing capacity is 9200, shoot for a trailer that is 7800-8000 lbs DRY WEIGHT, if you want to be safe.

 

Many an RV salesman will tell someone "Oh you can tow that EEEASY!" Many are more concerned with selling you the trailer than your safety or your truck's well being. Ive seen it and read about it many times. Get the EXACT weights if you can of the trailer you plan on purchasing. The "dry" weight is pretty much a useless number. Its the weight of a bare bones trailer with no options or tanks full of water, propane, etc. Go by the Gross trailer weight. It'll give you more of a cushion. My trailer has a gross weight of 7000 lbs, but loaded up is around 5500-6000lbs.

If I may ask, what is the exact make and model of the trailer you are looking at? Im sure with that info many here can help you out.

 

I disagree with that completely, for a few reasons.

One, the dry is the trailer as it is sold with no clothes, food or fluids in the tank (if im not mistaken). You are not always going to have your tanks full when you travel. Remember, there are three tanks. Black, grey and fresh. Most of the time, depending on what type of camper you are, you generally wont have all tanks full.

Another reason is this. One family may pack more clothes and food, than a single person who is just going for the weekend. I know, when my family camps, there isnt too much that is left behind. So I pack accordingly, when we do trailer camp. I dont know the social status of the OP, so thats why i said go with the dry weight.

How many times have you packed the trailer to the brim, completely full, and trusted that it didnt weigh more than the GVWR? Just because the trailer says GVWR is 8500 lbs, doesnt mean that it COULD weigh more.

In my experience, and from watching others, Ive learned that you start with the dry weight, then pack the trailer, and go for a drive to the scales. See what you have. Dont depend on whgat the sticker says is GVWR. When you pack a trailer to go, the CERTAIN you have is the dry weight....

*sighs* tell me the dry weight is a useless number.... geeze...

 

Going from 3.92 gears to 4.56s increases the towing capacity by 1000 lbs. according to Dodge's specs. That would be IT, legally, if you are over spec, you can get ticketed. Hell I've even seen state cops make people unhook on the side of the interstate and make arrangements for a vehicle rated for the weight to come hook it up!

To tow ANYTHING even near capacity, on any more than once in a blue moon, I would do the following:

4.56 Gears
Weight Distributing Hitch
E-Brake
Air Bags
Slotted Rotors with HD Pads and 6 Piston Calipers
Deep Sump Transmission Pan, like the Mag-Hytec with drain plug and sensor bung
Transmission Temperature Guage in the Cab...

You still run the risk of being over manufacturer spec and if you have an accident, you may have issues with the insurance company, but you will have done everything you can to make a 1500 tow as much weight as possible...

 

You know, Ive never pulled a travel trailer without a distribution hitch. It seems to me that is kinda of a golden rule. I know you dont have to, but is always a strong recommendation.

Dodge says 1000 lbs with 4:56 gears? wow, thats cool

 

I don't know if they still do, but I picked it up in a Dodge's specs for the '05s a couple of years ago. I actually pulled it up and posted the link online to win an argument maybe a year and a half ago or so...