2003 Tow Hitch wiring connector problem
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From: Alberta Canada
2003 Tow Hitch wiring connector problem
Hi ALL
I posted the same thread over in the Diesel forum but I was hoping someone here may be able to help as well.
I have a 2003 Diesel that has the tow package wiring kit installed from the factory. I inadvertently shorted across the contact pin for the park (marker) lights in my 7 pin plug receiver on my truck this weekend. The park lights work on the truck however I don't have power at that pin anymore on the plug receiver. All the other contacts work just fine. I pulled the plug receiver apart and tested the contacts on the coupler and there is no power there as well. I checked the 4 pin adapter as well and there is no power for the park lights there either so I have assertained that the problem is up front. I completed a visual in my fuse block under the hood and did not find any of the mini spade fuses burned and can't see any of the fuseable link style fuses burned either. Does anyone know which fuse number on the block I should be pulling and replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree? The only in-line fuse I had on the harness checked out OK as well.
Please Help!
Thx in advance.
Kim
I posted the same thread over in the Diesel forum but I was hoping someone here may be able to help as well.
I have a 2003 Diesel that has the tow package wiring kit installed from the factory. I inadvertently shorted across the contact pin for the park (marker) lights in my 7 pin plug receiver on my truck this weekend. The park lights work on the truck however I don't have power at that pin anymore on the plug receiver. All the other contacts work just fine. I pulled the plug receiver apart and tested the contacts on the coupler and there is no power there as well. I checked the 4 pin adapter as well and there is no power for the park lights there either so I have assertained that the problem is up front. I completed a visual in my fuse block under the hood and did not find any of the mini spade fuses burned and can't see any of the fuseable link style fuses burned either. Does anyone know which fuse number on the block I should be pulling and replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree? The only in-line fuse I had on the harness checked out OK as well.
Please Help!
Thx in advance.
Kim
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,276
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From: Las Vegas
Hi ALL
I posted the same thread over in the Diesel forum but I was hoping someone here may be able to help as well.
I have a 2003 Diesel that has the tow package wiring kit installed from the factory. I inadvertently shorted across the contact pin for the park (marker) lights in my 7 pin plug receiver on my truck this weekend. The park lights work on the truck however I don't have power at that pin anymore on the plug receiver. All the other contacts work just fine. I pulled the plug receiver apart and tested the contacts on the coupler and there is no power there as well. I checked the 4 pin adapter as well and there is no power for the park lights there either so I have assertained that the problem is up front. I completed a visual in my fuse block under the hood and did not find any of the mini spade fuses burned and can't see any of the fuseable link style fuses burned either. Does anyone know which fuse number on the block I should be pulling and replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree? The only in-line fuse I had on the harness checked out OK as well.
Please Help!
Thx in advance.
Kim
I posted the same thread over in the Diesel forum but I was hoping someone here may be able to help as well.
I have a 2003 Diesel that has the tow package wiring kit installed from the factory. I inadvertently shorted across the contact pin for the park (marker) lights in my 7 pin plug receiver on my truck this weekend. The park lights work on the truck however I don't have power at that pin anymore on the plug receiver. All the other contacts work just fine. I pulled the plug receiver apart and tested the contacts on the coupler and there is no power there as well. I checked the 4 pin adapter as well and there is no power for the park lights there either so I have assertained that the problem is up front. I completed a visual in my fuse block under the hood and did not find any of the mini spade fuses burned and can't see any of the fuseable link style fuses burned either. Does anyone know which fuse number on the block I should be pulling and replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree? The only in-line fuse I had on the harness checked out OK as well.
Please Help!
Thx in advance.
Kim
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From: Alberta Canada
Redone4x4
I had the plug receiver apart at the bumper disconnected and reconnected the plug to the harness and that did not fix the problem. There was no power at the harness connection for the plug receiver.
Thx
Kim
I had the plug receiver apart at the bumper disconnected and reconnected the plug to the harness and that did not fix the problem. There was no power at the harness connection for the plug receiver.
Thx
Kim
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Milledgeville, GA
It looks like the trailer output has its own fuse.
Diagram:
I'd look at the #33 fuse - 20 amps.
Page 8W-10-36 that the diagram refers to clarifies that we're on the right track. That fuse supplies only the trailer's parking light output; the truck's front and rear parking lights have their own 10A fuses.
Diagram:
I'd look at the #33 fuse - 20 amps.
Page 8W-10-36 that the diagram refers to clarifies that we're on the right track. That fuse supplies only the trailer's parking light output; the truck's front and rear parking lights have their own 10A fuses.
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Thread Starter
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Registered User
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From: Alberta Canada
It looks like the trailer output has its own fuse.
Diagram:
I'd look at the #33 fuse - 20 amps.
Page 8W-10-36 that the diagram refers to clarifies that we're on the right track. That fuse supplies only the trailer's parking light output; the truck's front and rear parking lights have their own 10A fuses.
Diagram:
I'd look at the #33 fuse - 20 amps.
Page 8W-10-36 that the diagram refers to clarifies that we're on the right track. That fuse supplies only the trailer's parking light output; the truck's front and rear parking lights have their own 10A fuses.
Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned that I also looked at page W-10-36 and a few others of the manual and decided to check into the PDC. I checked out all of the fuses and replaced one that wasn't related to the park lights. I also replaced the park lamp relay which didn't fix the problem either. I'm wondering if the problem may be in a control module and how to test that?
Thx
Kim
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: North Eastern England
This shorting of the trailer plug might just be a red herring, from what the possible real fault is.
On 03's there is a common Integrated Power Module problem, commonly called the fuse box to you and I (smile).
Inside, there's a lot of embeded earth return lines that corrode over time.
These cause a high resistance which stops the Front Control Module, which is attached to the side of the IPM, from switching over the relays which supply power to the rear lights.
Get a live +12v wire from the battery and go either side of fuse 33. This will supply power to your tralier harness from that point rearwards.
If this works, all your wirring and lights/connecters aft, are obviously working.
It's thefore the control of the FCM and the swiching of the relays that is your problem.
I had bad issues, with my rear lights not coming on. It was VERY intermittent and I eventually pinned the fault down when the fault almost became solid, to the IPM/fuse box. I replaced it and everything is 100% OK again.
I'm not sure if this is your issue, but several people on this forum and on another well known site, have had this issue and the only fix was a new IPM.
Hope this helps?
Al.
On 03's there is a common Integrated Power Module problem, commonly called the fuse box to you and I (smile).
Inside, there's a lot of embeded earth return lines that corrode over time.
These cause a high resistance which stops the Front Control Module, which is attached to the side of the IPM, from switching over the relays which supply power to the rear lights.
Get a live +12v wire from the battery and go either side of fuse 33. This will supply power to your tralier harness from that point rearwards.
If this works, all your wirring and lights/connecters aft, are obviously working.
It's thefore the control of the FCM and the swiching of the relays that is your problem.
I had bad issues, with my rear lights not coming on. It was VERY intermittent and I eventually pinned the fault down when the fault almost became solid, to the IPM/fuse box. I replaced it and everything is 100% OK again.
I'm not sure if this is your issue, but several people on this forum and on another well known site, have had this issue and the only fix was a new IPM.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Last edited by abarmby; Apr 10, 2009 at 10:23 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Alberta Canada
This shorting of the trailer plug might just be a red herring, from what the possible real fault is.
On 03's there is a common Integrated Power Module problem, commonly called the fuse box to you and I (smile).
Inside, there's a lot of embeded earth return lines that corrode over time.
These cause a high resistance which stops the Front Control Module, which is attached to the side of the IPM, from switching over the relays which supply power to the rear lights.
Get a live +12v wire from the battery and go either side of fuse 33. This will supply power to your tralier harness from that point rearwards.
If this works, all your wirring and lights/connecters aft, are obviously working.
It's thefore the control of the FCM and the swiching of the relays that is your problem.
I had bad issues, with my rear lights not coming on. It was VERY intermittent and I eventually pinned the fault down when the fault almost became solid, to the IPM/fuse box. I replaced it and everything is 100% OK again.
I'm not sure if this is your issue, but several people on this forum and on another well known site, have had this issue and the only fix was a new IPM.
Hope this helps?
Al.
On 03's there is a common Integrated Power Module problem, commonly called the fuse box to you and I (smile).
Inside, there's a lot of embeded earth return lines that corrode over time.
These cause a high resistance which stops the Front Control Module, which is attached to the side of the IPM, from switching over the relays which supply power to the rear lights.
Get a live +12v wire from the battery and go either side of fuse 33. This will supply power to your tralier harness from that point rearwards.
If this works, all your wirring and lights/connecters aft, are obviously working.
It's thefore the control of the FCM and the swiching of the relays that is your problem.
I had bad issues, with my rear lights not coming on. It was VERY intermittent and I eventually pinned the fault down when the fault almost became solid, to the IPM/fuse box. I replaced it and everything is 100% OK again.
I'm not sure if this is your issue, but several people on this forum and on another well known site, have had this issue and the only fix was a new IPM.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Thx for the info on the IPM and the FCM. I had a tech at one of the local dealerships tell me the same. I was hoping that I didn't have to replace either of them. Yesterday, I made the decision to test all of the fuses one more time just to make sure I didn't miss or skip over one and it just so happens that #33 was faulty. How I missed that with the first diagnostics I don't know, but I'm happy now that I don't have to tear out any modules or the complete power center.
Thanks guys for the input! I can pull my trailers around now safely and not worry about getting caught in the dark.
Kim
