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pics of 6+3 lift with 35s?

Old May 30, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by xill
did you regear too or are you still on the stock gears? if you have the 4.7, did you notice any major loss in acceleration? not many of us 2WD'ers on here with lifts...
Nope, still got the stock gears. Yea, I have a 4.7, and I haven't really noticed much of a difference. I thought being the 4.7 with stock gears it would kinda struggle for a while, but not much of a difference.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 05:17 AM
  #32  
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thats awesome, exactly the info ive been waiting to hear, now i have no worries about getting lifted with 35s with my 4.7 2wd speaking of which i saw a 2wd Titan down the street from me today with 38s and a 10" lift. guess nissan suspensions are stronger than dodge's cuz he said he's had no problems with it all and he's had his setup for over a year now
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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I think 6" lift and 35's is just about perfect for the 2wd's. I like the look of 9" of lift with 37's, but it seems to be on the edge of what the IFS can handle. I have the 6" fabtech with 35's on 18's and it handles perfect, and maintained good power and gas mileage.

 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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okay, if you got a 2wd the 6 inch lift and 33's on mine look perfect. 35's would rub. With a 3 inch body lift on top of that with a true 35 tire would look perfect.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by oefootball_70
okay, if you got a 2wd the 6 inch lift and 33's on mine look perfect. 35's would rub. With a 3 inch body lift on top of that with a true 35 tire would look perfect.
I meant not rub, but be close to rubbing or at least look like they would rub.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Mine don't rub, and they look great.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 11:57 AM
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I think something might have gone wrong with my install my cross member and lower control arm touch at full turn. Weird. Maybe if I put a level on it, it will extend it more so that they don't rub.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 12:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by oefootball_70
I think something might have gone wrong with my install my cross member and lower control arm touch at full turn. Weird. Maybe if I put a level on it, it will extend it more so that they don't rub.

Your lower control arm is bolted to the A-frame. How can it touch anything? Your outer tierod can touch because that's what moves in/out with turning the wheel. Now there is usually a bump stop either on the frame or the control arm to stop over turning. With a lift, the angles can change and cause it to touch sooner!

Post up a Pic OE so we can see what you are referring to. We'll square ya away.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CreativeOffroad
Nope, still got the stock gears. Yea, I have a 4.7, and I haven't really noticed much of a difference. I thought being the 4.7 with stock gears it would kinda struggle for a while, but not much of a difference.
hey creative what backspacing are you running with those new wheels? I've picked out a set of 18x9.5s but my size and bolt pattern only come in 4.5" BS. I've heard on other threads of guys rubbing a lil bit with that much spacing, but they all had 10" wheel widths. not sure if that really makes a difference though since i'll have the same 12.5" wide tire. i've seen other rams with 4.5" of BS and love how the tire sticks out just a lil more with that setup, would look really tough with the fender flares, just not sure if i need to prepare myself for some trimming or not...
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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You 4x2 owners are better suited to run bigger tires than us IFS 4x4 truck guys in my opinion. Although you'll wear front end components out much faster than normal, you really aren't risking a catastrophic failure like we are if you don't go crazy high. You have NO CV joints to break!
I still really wouldn't go past the 6" / 35s personally, though...
 
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