How to Wash, Wax etc.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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Zaino products are what i use with some meguairs here and there for smaller stuff. www.zainostore.com
it's a synthetic sealant which I tend to like more than carnuba wax because it will have a longer durability approximately six months to a year compared to a month or two with carnuba wax (judged by water beading/sheeting). Synthetic sealants are also nice because they require less product especially zaino. I use approx 1 oz to do my truck three times. they are super easy to remove and they can be applied in direct sunlight. i still don't do that but if worst comes to worst and it has to be done it will not affect the bonding of the sealant to the paint.
I recommend for the first time you go to do a big detail job involving washing and up through to a LSP (wax or sealer, last step process) I would wash it with dawn. dawn is fairly alkaline and it will stip off any of the wax left on the vehicle from previous applications, automatic car washes and what not. It will leave you with a squeaky clean surface. Then as rubberfrog mentions in his post the next step is to use a claybar. claybars will get off all the junk and dirt from the paint that ordinary washing will not. run your hand over your paint after a wash and feel the bumps and such. those a claybar will remove.
claybar is easy just mix your soap with water and spray it on and rub it in keeping the surface lubricated and just rinse off and check progress as you go. do it one panel at a time so you don't lose your place.
Next I go with a polish that will either remove or hide the existing small surface scratches. a glaze such as megs scratch x merely fills in the scratches/swirls and is not permanent. a polish such as menzerna or some megs and zaino stuff with abrasives will remove clear coat to get to a smooth clear and perfect finish.
then it's time for a wax/seal. this is what gets the protection and will keep that shine going. after this you just maintain with normal washing and some sort of quick detailer.
I would not recommend purchasing a rotary buffer. It is too easy for a rookie to burn through the clear coat and leave marring or at worst just ruin the paint. A random orbital will do a great job and you honestly have to be a retard to ruin paint with it. the orbitals move in a eliptical shaped pattern and do not allow heat to be built up between the pad and paint which is where rookies go wrong with rotarys and ruin paint.
that's a short run down for it all. Invest in two good large buckets with grit gaurds, lots of high quality cotton towels and microfiber and you are good to go.
it's a synthetic sealant which I tend to like more than carnuba wax because it will have a longer durability approximately six months to a year compared to a month or two with carnuba wax (judged by water beading/sheeting). Synthetic sealants are also nice because they require less product especially zaino. I use approx 1 oz to do my truck three times. they are super easy to remove and they can be applied in direct sunlight. i still don't do that but if worst comes to worst and it has to be done it will not affect the bonding of the sealant to the paint.
I recommend for the first time you go to do a big detail job involving washing and up through to a LSP (wax or sealer, last step process) I would wash it with dawn. dawn is fairly alkaline and it will stip off any of the wax left on the vehicle from previous applications, automatic car washes and what not. It will leave you with a squeaky clean surface. Then as rubberfrog mentions in his post the next step is to use a claybar. claybars will get off all the junk and dirt from the paint that ordinary washing will not. run your hand over your paint after a wash and feel the bumps and such. those a claybar will remove.
claybar is easy just mix your soap with water and spray it on and rub it in keeping the surface lubricated and just rinse off and check progress as you go. do it one panel at a time so you don't lose your place.
Next I go with a polish that will either remove or hide the existing small surface scratches. a glaze such as megs scratch x merely fills in the scratches/swirls and is not permanent. a polish such as menzerna or some megs and zaino stuff with abrasives will remove clear coat to get to a smooth clear and perfect finish.
then it's time for a wax/seal. this is what gets the protection and will keep that shine going. after this you just maintain with normal washing and some sort of quick detailer.
I would not recommend purchasing a rotary buffer. It is too easy for a rookie to burn through the clear coat and leave marring or at worst just ruin the paint. A random orbital will do a great job and you honestly have to be a retard to ruin paint with it. the orbitals move in a eliptical shaped pattern and do not allow heat to be built up between the pad and paint which is where rookies go wrong with rotarys and ruin paint.
that's a short run down for it all. Invest in two good large buckets with grit gaurds, lots of high quality cotton towels and microfiber and you are good to go.