Oil Pan Removal question
#11
You certainly would spend a lot of time on your back. The 4.7l mains are part of a cast section, there are no single bearing caps so they can't be changed one at a time. I think you'd have to take the front of the engine off, remove the timing, and remove that portion of the "block". I'm not sure how the transmission would play into things but it would be the only thing left holding the crankshaft into position. Steve
Hmmmm best to ****** it. The oil sending unit fixed problem I was having ( y I was considering ).
#12
Found this thread when replacing the oil pan on my 2004 RAM 1500 4.7L 4x4. Oil was dripping through it was so rusted! Wow!
The FSM does not mention anything about removing the driver's side engine mount supporting bracket. This needs to be unbolted in order to remove the structural dust cover in order to get to the oil pan bolts. There were 11 bolts, and the bracket was still stuck in a small cavity, but I was able to move it out of the way enough to get the structural dust cover off. Also had to take out the throughbolts for the front axle. The gasket/windage tray was very stuck to the pan, had to use a prybar and really mangle things to get the pan to drop in order to get to the 3 nuts and 1 bolt of the gasket/windage tray. Threading in the bolts for the engine mount supporting bracket was almost impossible for each bolt. Starting with the four to the front of the truck was the trick, but took hours to get things threaded properly. Getting the throughbolts back in for the front axle was also tough, ended up using a floor jack and transmission jack and playing with it. Think twice before you tackle this, unless you are good with aligning things!
The FSM does not mention anything about removing the driver's side engine mount supporting bracket. This needs to be unbolted in order to remove the structural dust cover in order to get to the oil pan bolts. There were 11 bolts, and the bracket was still stuck in a small cavity, but I was able to move it out of the way enough to get the structural dust cover off. Also had to take out the throughbolts for the front axle. The gasket/windage tray was very stuck to the pan, had to use a prybar and really mangle things to get the pan to drop in order to get to the 3 nuts and 1 bolt of the gasket/windage tray. Threading in the bolts for the engine mount supporting bracket was almost impossible for each bolt. Starting with the four to the front of the truck was the trick, but took hours to get things threaded properly. Getting the throughbolts back in for the front axle was also tough, ended up using a floor jack and transmission jack and playing with it. Think twice before you tackle this, unless you are good with aligning things!
#15
You are asking this on a Truck forum... and how many know anything about a 40 year old car...
but to answer your question... YES.... sub-frame in the way...
remove complete sub-frame with engine and transmission...
it can be done differently.. but way harder.
my opinion... retired auto mechanic 43 years.. yes I am old.. and worked on them when new...
#17
#18
Oil pan magic
I had a 2001 Dodge Dakota quad cab 4 by 4, and I now have a 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 extended cab. There was a 5.9 in the 2001, and I have a 4.7 in the 2003. They both have the same problem, oil leaking through the oil pan. I did this to both. Cut out the bad section, let the oil drain down thru the engine for a couple of weeks, and then welded in new patches. Grind and weld, grind and weld, because the pan ends up being so thin is like trying to weld paper. At any rate, after all the welding was done, I thoroughly cleaned w/ lacquer thinner and air pressure and then rough sanded the entire surface. Now you're going to love this part, I coated the entire thing with J-B Weld, sanded reapplied, sanded reapplied, sanded reapplied. I sold the 2001 2 years ago, which would put the repair at 6 years old with no problems. I just finished the 2003 last week, and so far knock knock knocking on heavens wood, no problems yet. if I knew how to post pictures I would to show you how it was done. BTW, I have a lift in my garage in New Hampshire, so the 2001 was done standing up. At my home in Florida I drove the 2003, up on car ramps, and did that repair on my back on a creeper. Needless to say one job was ( relatively !) easier than the other....LOL. The job on the 2003 was completed on 3/18/2018.
Last edited by riggarob; 03-27-2018 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Left out that the 2003 is also a 4x4
#19
#20
I can tell you I just did oil pan gasket/rear main seal on my 5.9l....said to raise engine but I lowered down front diff instead since bolts came out in 10 minutes. I never propped my engine and got it done. Only issue I had was putting it in and pickup tube kept hitting the thin plate in pan....but after taking my time it all went right back together.....total time to do oil pan gasket and rear main was about an hour and a half