I have searched this forum for hours on this topic. I bought a '02 QC 4x4 about 3 weeks ago and have this exact same issue. When I test drove it, I ran it up to about 60 and it was perfectly smooth. Didn't think anything about it. Well, I bought it and had it out on a country road the next day and at about 62-63mph it started shaking like crazy! Since, I have installed brand new tires with an alignment, rotated them to see if it went elsewhere, replaced u-joints, bought 2 new wheels. I am totally lost as to what it could be...............I have no pulsing in the brakes so have ruled out rotors. I am wondering if it is in the rear-end somewhere? Just absolutely lost and I consider myself a pretty good wrench. I love the truck, but if I can't do 65-70 on the road I don't want it. I would love to get to the bottom of this problem fast. Seems tons of guys are having the same issue though................

Aaron

P.S. I did have the balance on the drive-shaft checked too!

 

Ok, here's the update. I put on new shocks on every corner. Also, I put new balanced rotors and semi-metallic pads on the front. This did seem to help matters, now I don't feel a drumming noise in the floor boards as badly. It's still there, but it is improved. So, I'm going to replace the rear rotors and pads this weekend. I investigated after-market rotors, and I did learn some things. They are of vastly different quality and thickness, and they don't all get balanced. You should insist on balanced replacement rotors. If you think about how much a rotor weighs compared to those puny tire weights, it's no wonder they can cause shaking and vibration. Also, make sure the rotor is a very close fit around the center hub. And when you tighten the lugs, get them pretty close to tight while still up on the jack (yes, I know you're supposed to set the truck down before tightening). But there is a fair amount of slack in the 5 x 5.5 inch pattern around each lug, and you want that centered by the lug crown. Manufacturers used to hold the rotors on with counter sunk screws or rivets, now they are just held in place by the lug nuts until they rust on to the hubs. Hardly progress in my book, but whatever. More will be updated after I replace the rear rotors and pads.

 

Thanks for the update. I will be following it!

Aaron

 

Jack up front end and check hub bearings.

 

Well, when I had the truck in the air, I checked top to bottom free-play, and noted *******ly no slop. I then spun the hubs and they rotated freely and did not stop suddenly at the end. Do you have any other tests you would recommend?

 

Okay- here's the answer. 1500 trucks, whether they are 2wd or 4wd, all use the exact same front hub. The shaking is a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly. The tire stores don't find it because they don't test drive the trucks. The wheels spin fine up in the air on the floor lift, and they lot-drive just fine. But at 45-70mph, they vibrate and resonate through the truck. I spent tons of money on tires, brakes, shocks and bushings. The answer, believe me, is a new front hub assembly. They are unit-design, held in place but three bolts in a triangle, and take tons of PB rust buster, torch heat, and air hammer to replace. But I absolutely promise you the 60 mph shakies are from a bad hub. There you have it.

 

You must live up north if you had to use PB Blaster and a torch to take your hubs off.

THX for the update though

 

So how do you determine if a hub is bad? I have some vibration, generally when cold. Once the truck warms up a little, the vibration tends to go away. I also get the vibration when in 4wd (which doesn't happen often). I do have a 2.5" lift on my '07. I have new shocks on the front, 2 alignments, and new tires.

I'm curious if perhaps it could be the hubs.... on the other hand, I don't want to just spend the cash to replace the hubs if they're not the issue.

joe

 

Well, thanks for the question. I could not tell I had a bad hub until I had removed the tire and rotor/caliper assembly. But then, I could spin the wheel hub easily with my fingers, and could feel a drumming noise/vibration. Also, without the weight of the rotor, I saw that the hub stopped spinning quickly, which also indicated a bad hub. So, I look at it this way, a hub is only $120-$170 depending on if you have All wheel or RWD anti-lock braking system and how nice you go on the part quality. In comparison, you can barely buy a set of shocks or rotors for that much money, or one tire. It is a fair amount of work, but in the scheme of things it's one of the cheaper repairs, and if you have a miled-up truck you're not out anything anyhow. The bearings won't hurt to replace so they don't quit on you someplace u wish they hadn't. And if you're a lucky dog like me, it was the problem all along, and you get to enjoy a smooth quiet truck again. My problem is fixed, period. It runs out as smooth as a top from 5 mph to 90mph, been that way for 3 days. At least for me, that was the problem, no question, Fair enough?