Fixed...?? Huh?? But you said before that Brake fluid did not mix with water and that it was like Hydraulic fluid?? WTF.
Most articles written on Passenger cars are meant for cars like the Taurus and Caliber, not about full size trucks that tow/haul and weigh almost 7,000lbs or cars like the Magnum/Charger vehicles that have 400hp and have drivers that run their cars like they stole them.


It's not on Jiffy Lube's list of Raping charges because it has to do with Insurance at that point. That's the only reason it's not on their list.

I have a question for ya. If there is no moisture present as you stated before, then why the hell does the fluid turn brown/black...hmmm....Because dirt and moisture have contaminated the fluid. Fluid will corrode master cylinders and ABS cylinders, so I don't know why you think otherwise. Sure the benefit of stopping could be negligable, but that's another story.

I'll give you my scenerio. I bought a 97 Exploder for a beater. The brakes were horrendous so I bled them to see if there was any air in there. Made no difference in pedal feel. The fluid was dark drown in color. I flushed all the lines with Fresh DOT4 fluid and OMFG, i almost went through the windshield. Now, you tell me why that is? The brakes were NEVER opened. The original owner said he had just changed the pads at 50kmi. It has 87kmi right now.
Also, same deal with my father old '02 F-150. i flushed the brakes and wow. What a difference from the old fluid to the new.
So, boiling point may not matter, but the more moisture that is present in the brake fluid, the more squishy your pedal will feel thus giving you delayed reastion time.

Here's another article http://www.gadgetonline.com/BrakeFlush.htm

 

I'm not arguing this anymore. If you'd like to waste time and money on doing something that is far from necessary, have at it.


I'm going to flush the air out of my tires now, I think the air that's in there is worn out.

 

I'm with dirtydog on this one. Changing the brake fluid is recommended maintenance every 30k miles/24 months according to my Haynes manual, I haven't checked the Dodge manual yet so I don't know their recommended interval. Here is a quote from the Haynes manual "Do not use brake fluid that has been standing open or is more than 1 year old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness." I don't think this is something that has to be done, kind of like you don't have to change your tranny fluid or differential fluid every 30k but you should.

 

Funny you say this because there are probably more people out there that have Nitrogen put in their tires yet have never flushed out their brake fluid.

 

Again this is good - a hearty and spirited debate! Does rotating the air in the tires and greasing muffler bearings fit into any of these categories?
The humor is great - but whatever is done should 'AIR' on the best side of safety!

 

Not to knock your reading comprehension, but........

LEARN TO COMPREHEND

They're talking about a container of brake fluid sitting on a shelf.

 

Yes, I was merely supporting dirtydog's info that the fluid can absorb moisture whether in a container or in your truck. Your statement doesn't change the fact that this is recommended maintenance and therefore should be done if you can afford to do it.

 

OK guys hopefully you are done with the debate. can anyone offer me help inwhich I wanted to know is there anything special I need to do regarding the rear anti-lock. Will the rear anti-lock prevent me from flushing the brakes, do I need to disable it?

 

I honestly have no idea, but would like to know. I know on newer Audi's and VW's, you have to take it to the dealer for them to hook their computer into the anti-lock motor to cycle the motor. Point being, A LOT of manufacturers are starting to use the same system.

 

According to the repair manual their are no special precautions for the rear anti-lock brakes. Just be sure that you keep enough fluid in the reservoir so you don't end up w/ air in the system. The manual also states to bleed the brakes in this order right rear wheel first, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and finally the left front wheel. Good luck and let us know how it goes.