which is why the lights would still flicker occasionally because there's not enough load for the truck to be sensing a bulb there, so that's what resistors would do.. Wonder why capacitors are such a popular thing i read so many things about them working i was almost dumbfounded when the problem got much much worse.

So how did you wire in those resistors and for the 8 ohm 20 watt ones how many do i need. I'll just do this tomorrow and be done with it, or i'll do 6 ohm 50 watt if you could link them on radioshack or something that'd be sick or where ever you got them i found the 8 ohm ones not the 6, or does it matter.

I knew the relay was for pulling power off the battery but i guess i thought it would help with the flickering issue as well.

It shouldnt matter the ohms as long as you have enough resistance to trick the PCM into thinking there is a bulb there

2pcs 6 Ohm 50W Turn Signal LED Bulbs Load Resistors

8-Ohm Non-Inductive Resistor

You will need four total. One end connects to the high beam wire and the other end to the common (ground). The other one goes to the low beam wire and to the common (ground). You can use T-taps to connect them or splice them in with butt connectors

ok I'm not using Bixenon's so there still is a regular halogen bulb hooked up to my high beams so i'm assuming I will not need to do anything for the high beam. Th way these guys are hooked up with one relay i'm only using the drivers side harness from the truck to trigger the HID's so i'm assuming I just need one of them for that part.

If it's just going from the hot side of low beam to ground I could probably just take the resistor and do exactly what people were doing with the caps and put it in the relay and then place the relay in there as well.. That's super ez..or i'll solder it in to the harness.. I'll pick the 8 ohm 20's from radioshack today I really don't wanna have to order something rather just fix it today and be done.

You have the right idea but you will still need to do the same for the pass side even though your relay and harness trigger both sides. The PCM (or FCM) is still looking and expecting a halogen bulb on the pass side

Mine are kinda like yours and this is what i have that goes in on the pass side OEM lighting harness to trick the truck into thinking there is a bulb over there when actually there is not.

I have a capacitor on my new kit, but when I was using it the lights would heat up and then shut off...I just thought about it

The thing would get so hot that it would burn your finger...I had to unhook one side and just leave it dangling and its been that way a year

Hmm. So weed I understand how to hook up those resistors just one more thing how hot does one of those bad boys get. Negligible when considering placement or something to be concerned with. Also do u see a problem with the ballasts being grounded to the battery the ground and hot from the relay for the battery and their lengths made it super conveneient to tag power off of the battery and ground. I'm gonna look at the relay and figure out if the ground on the relay is tied into the factory harness at all or what but I'm gonna use the little adapters that come with the kit that go from h13 plug to the plug that goes into relay or a ballast if I wasn't using relay and ill wire the resistors in to each one of those.

After thinking this through I'm certain resistors are what I need idk why I didn't realize it before

IDK how hot they get actually as i never check. Ive had them every since Ive had my HIDs (been a while now) and Ive never had an issue or reason to go check them. I am sure they get warm though. I know guys who have used the ones from RS and mounted them in aluminum channel bar for heat dissipation. The ones from ebay you can also try to find at Autozone as I have seen them there and those are already in heatsinks for dissipation.

There should not be an issue with the ground of the ballast going to the battery because the battery itself is grounded to the frame and block.

Thank you both Weed and Ben for asking/answering all these questions. I've been needing to fix mine.......ever since I got'em, lol. Its SO annoying when they flicker. Last night I cruised around for about an hr or so, flickered probably close to 10 times. Super annoying, I just don't want anyone think Im flashing them or anything......

I just get nervous as hell thinking about splicing into these harnesses with the resistors. Thats why I got the plug n play system, so I wouldn't have to do this ****. Guess thats what happens when you try'n get a deal on something.

Good luck Ben, keep us posted on how it works out, as Im gonna try and tackle this real soon, like maybe today, lol..

well i just put the resistor in the harness that plugs into the relay and did a test, everything appears to be working.. man that resistor gets hot like hot if you touch it you don't wanna do it again... I don't think it's hot enough to melt wires but then again idk...

Ok so weed, i'm gonna have to order the ones from Ebay. The rs ones get way way way too hot. Just to test I put a zip tie around them and turned on the HID's for ten mins.... it melted the zip tie in that time frame. That's just way too damn hot. I found some things online about the ones you have that they stay cooler so that's what i'm gonna do. In the ten min the HID's were on no flickering.. altho that's not been uncommon the randomness and rarity of the flickering is beginning to make me think it's just a normal thing,

Now does anyone have any idea why adding a capacitor would cause the relay to close and open as if someone was turning the switch on and off inside the truck.. the addition of a capacitor is very popular on other forums for the chargers/challengers/magnums/caliber/avenger and to everyone it works.. now i would have thought it would work with a ram.. apparently not?