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Fog light help

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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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Default Fog light help

Ok I know this has been gone over before, I bought the mopar fog light kit and got it all hooked up today. But to no surprise.. They dont work. I know I need to get the FCM re programmed for the lights which is complete bull****. Im waiting for a call back from chrysler for a quote and if its to over the top then Im just gonna say screw it and wire the lights up to a relay so they come on when then headlights do. The reason Im posting this is because there is 2 wires going to the light harness, +/-.. I need to know which is which and since I wont get any power there without the stupid fcm reprog my multimeter is useless.. So if someone could tell me which is my positice and which is my negative either from a wiring diagram (weed) or else if someone has some spare time and wants to go out there and find out with a test light or something Id greatly aprreciate it.. thanks.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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The white/yellow to the lamp is positive and the black is negative. And the dealer you purchaced them from should turn them on for minimal charge if not free. I know my dealer doesn't charge if you purchaced them from us.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Thanks, Ill probably go the relay route.. The dealer up here wants 65$ for it and I didnt buy from them, theres some guy that works at a chrysler dealership in the states that i bought them from off ebay cause he sells the kits for like 200$ cheaper then The dealership up here.. its ridiculouse the prices for OEM stuff
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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That's embarassing.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tizzy1
That's embarassing.
lol the price for the FCM reprog or the crazy price of fog light kits.. Cause I think both is pretty bloody ridiculous.. Ok 1 more question, I never have properly educated myself on amperage and such.. although Ive wired alot of stuff before with no problems.. Im running a 20amp fuse for some 55watt offroad lights I have through a relay that I use for reverse lights but they are never on for more then 10 seconds at a time so they dont heat up much. I remember like 8 years ago when I had my first truck I wired offroad lights on the front and I used something stupid like 2.5 or 5 amp and after having them on for 20 mins straight they would heat up and blow the fuse, not knowing the problem at the time I would just keep throwing fuses in whenever this happened after they cooled a bit. Now the question, what amp fuse should I buy? the bulbs are 9006s and I read that those are 55watt bulbs, i also read somewhere that 10 amp fuse would work and 15 amp would be plenty to run both lights.. am I headed in the right direction? I think the mathematics are 55 watt + 55 watt = 110 watt /12v = 9.16amp..
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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I am not sure about your offroad lights, maybe like a 10-15 amp fuse. Don't take me up on that without knowing for sure though. As far as the fogs go I am not sure what setup you got but when I bought bought mine for my 03' 2500 it came with its own flush switch, wiring and I believe the relay too. I expected it to have a switch that replaced my factory one with the fog switch built into it but it didn't. I did not hook it up to my headlamps though. I spliced into my left front running light to a wire with constant feed I believe. It was a while ago but I think thats what I did. That way instead of having to have your headlights on to use your fogs you can use them with just your running lights and your headlights. Like I said though I don't know what your kit looks like, it may be different than mine was but that should still work for you. Mine came with a small diagram showing which wires to use but you can always use a tester or a test light.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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Yah I bought the complete mopar kit that came with the lights, bezels, hardware, the harness conecting the 2 lights, and the new stock headlight switch for the dash with the push button fog light switch. It all plugs into the stock stuff but the bloody chrysler thinks its a good idea to make it so the lights wont work unless the truck came off the lot with them. If i wanted to use the new stock headlight switch i would have to take my truck to chrysler and they would preprogram my FCM telling it that there was foglights hooked up now and for it to send power when the switch is activated.. and they charge for all this!!

I just finished hooking it all up, I used a 20amp fuse because the stupid store was outta 15amp but I dont think it will matter that much. I wired it through a relay so when the headlights are turned on it throws power down to the fogs and they work perfectly. Look awesome but I didnt think there was a need for pics since most of you have seen a set of fogs on before lol.. Ill take pictures and make a diy when I wire my buddies since I will have another set of hands around to work a camera. I used the headlight wire because I figured thats how they work stock anyways, the ****ty part is that they come off when the highs go on, just like stock though so w/e, I dont think ive ever used the highbeams in a truck before. The reason I used the heads instead of the amber runners is because I never drive around with just my ambers on unless I am parked and just run in the gas station and its dark out, so in that case having the fogs running at the same time would be kinda dumb. overall im happy with it and they look great!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 01:32 AM
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Good to hear man I'm glad you got it all figured out!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 01:44 AM
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Glad to hear you got around Chrysler's stupid bullsh!t. One dealer here wanted $69, another wanted $89!!!!! I found a shop (one of very few) that had the Starscan computer, fixed me up for $30. SO, inluding the HIDs, I have a total of $220 tied up in these damn foglights. Needless to say, If its remotely cloudy, hazy, dusk, dawn, anything but sunny, them bastards are on!!
 
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