Custom tuning which also allows disabling of the CELs for the O2 is around 250 at most Diablo CMR dealers. However, if you do non-foulers right (I stuff mine with 0000 steel wool) you should not have any issues. Anyone drilling them out to the point the outer wall is too thin is using too large of a drill bit or cant drill straight.

 

I decided to join this forum after this post helped me and I also wanted to share my experience.

I run a set of Mopar polished long tube headers on my midnight blue, 2004 Dodge 1500 Hemi 5.7L, high flow Mopar catalytic converts, Y-Pipe to a single 2.5 inch pipe, FlowMaster low rumble and it goes over the rear axle and stops. All necessary pipe welding was done by me. The Hemi 5.7 also has a cold air intake, a Superchips tuner, 20" stock rims with 305-50-R20 Falken tires. I cut and welded the rear shackles to shorten them and make the truck sit level.

Not even 2 years after I installed the headers, cats, Y pipe, part of the stock tail pipe, FlowMaster low rumble exhaust and tip, I started getting a check engine light or idiot light right before 2011 inspection, of course. Superchips reads DTCs and I was getting the infamous 0420 & 0430, bank 1 and bank 2 efficiency codes (or lack thereof).

I replaced all 4 O2 sensors with Bosch ($29-$59 each) from AutoZone, cleared the DTC, drove it for 50+ miles and still got the 0420 & 0430 codes. Dammit. From here Dodge quoted me $700 on replacement Mopar cats ( you have to buy Y pipe again as well) or $230 each for Magna flow cats (internet) that I have to cut the flange off of the Mopar cats to weld the MagnaFlow cats on. Last option was $500 parts and all to have it done at Joe's in Addision. Good guy, good work but do I need new cats. Hmm. I just spent $100 on a printed board to get my blinker fixed.

Internet! So I found this site. Next I bought the 18mm spark plug non-foulers at AutoZone for $3.99 each. They were in the HELP! section and part number 42009 was one type I bought. I found another set that was a little shorter or longer I can't tell now that I have taken them out of the packages.

I drilled one non-fouler out from each package, screwed them together (undrilled one in front). Then installed 2 / O2 sensors into the non-foulers for Bank1 (passenger side) in back and in front of the cat and the installed the front O2 sensor into a non-fouler on bank 2 (driver side).

The rear O2 sensor on bank 2 has a fatter O2 sensor tip and a larger hole has to be drilled out of the non-fouler. After breaking 2 drill bits, was getting dark outside...I decided to shut it down for the night.

I cleared the DTC and ran it for 50+ miles and NOW getting a 0133 sensor slow response and NOT the 0420 / 0430. Better. So I took out the front non-foulers out from Bank1 front and Bank2 front and installed the O2 sensors, leaving only 1 non-fouler on Bank1 rear.

I cleared the DTCs again and now was getting 0420, ONLY on Bank1! Now we are cooking. Installed a non-fouler on the front O2 sensor on Bank1 and have no codes! I have driven the truck for about 65 miles.

To sum it up -

- Bank1 - Front and back O2 sensors have the non-foulers installed.
- Bank2 - Front O2 sensor has a non-fouler installed.

I hope this rant saves someone the time it took to figure this out!

Good Luck
CajunJason

 

I'm new to this forum but thought I would pass on my experiences. Maybe it will help someone.

I am a garage mechanic and DIYer. I own a 2006 Ram 1500 SLT 4.7L Magnum. Recently, after paying it off, I replaced the intake system with a complete K&N Intake system, the headers with Flowtech 1 1/2" tube headers, and changed the exhaust system to a true duel using 2 1/4" pipe all the way back running through a Flowmaster Super 50. Shortly after I received a P0430 code.

So, I pulled all the O2s to check for carbon build up and if the ceramics were broken. I had very little carbon and none of the O2s rattled. But, because I am drawing near the time to replace the O2s, I replaced all four sensors. Before I installed the new O2s I purchased two sets of part number 42009 non-fouler kits.

I drilled out two of the connectors with a 1/2" titanium drill bit and used my Bosch 18V cordless drill. I also dipped the drill bit in motor oil which caused a lot of smoke but didn't allow the bit to bind on the metal. Of course, when you do this be careful not to nick the threads. The bit went through the fittings like butter and I completed drilling in less than 10 minutes.

After installing the down stream O2s with the non-foulers about a day later I received a P1128 code. I think the P1128 in bank 1 and P1129 is bank 2. Anyway, I researched the code and found that this model Ram uses the NTK or NDK O2s. The type I replaced them with were not either type.

After a few questions and some research I simply reinstalled the OE O2s in the upstream bungs, disconnected the negative on the battery again, and since have had no codes.

The upstream O2s monitor and regulate the oxygen/fuel mixture. The down stream O2s monitor catalytic air flow hence the reason I used the non-foulers.

I live in Texas and using non-foulers on O2s is illegal and will fail a vehicle during the yearly inspection but there are ways around that. The cheapest way is to have the inspection done at an inspector that doesn't look under the truck like Jiffy Lube or McDo's. The other option is simply remove the non-foulers, get the truck inspected, then reinstall them.

Of course, there are more expensive ways to avoid all this like reprogramming the PCM or installing more expensive catalysts that in the end don't really do anything for you. As a DIYer I'm happy with what I've done and will live with the possibility of failing an inspection.

By the way, I have experienced increased power and fuel mileage. I hope this helps somone.

 

ok guys i have been reading how to fix my 2004 dodge ram 1500 4.7 and now have a question. check engine light is on troublshooting code P0420.... i replaced both 02 sensors before the cat and i still have the check engine light on. I was told that bank 1 was before cat is that correct?? also is their anything else i should be looking at before i replace the cats, i found them cheap on summitracing.com for about $300 for the set. I just got this truck 3 months ago and im not a big fan of this truck yet as im starting to have problems and googling my issue just opened up a lot of potential disappointment as i read alot of bad things with this motor (4.7)....... any help thanks in advance.

 

ok so looking around on here i read to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes and reset the comp, well tada check engine light is off i drove about 20 miles and still no light!! well this afternoon it came back on!! ugggg this sucks

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the PO420 code denotes catylitic inefficiency, so the after cat o2 sensor is what is sending the code. The before cat sensors monitor engine functions. Bank 1 is one side of the motor and bank 2 is the other side

 

x2......................

 

u guys are correct it is after the cat...... apparently i didnt even give it any thought that if its a possible cat problem it might be the after cat o2 sensor but i can say the moron at autozone that sold them to me got an ear full cause he didnt know what he was talkin about tellin me bank 1 was o2 sensors before on both sides..... you information is correct bank 1 is the side of the engine where piston 1 is and bank 2 is the side with piston 2............ im glad i normally buy my parts from napa and not autozone, but tried autozone only because napa didnt have my part at the time it was a 3 day wait........ thanks for the help guys now off to figure out the overheating problem!!