Thanks I'll check them out

 

you can do the 35's especially if you are not planning on being offroad beating on it.

4" and 35's look great or 3" body lift and 35's look good. check out hammers truck that is 4" and 35's Look at cheapbeater his truck is 3" BL and 35's

 

in these trucks what are the differences in the heavy duty front suspesion and the non heavy duty.

As i was looking through my build sheet it states that it has the heavy duty front suspension but at the same time its a 1500 with IFS.

 

So should I treat my TRX4 1500 the same as any 1500? I'm not positive it is a TRX4. It has stickers on the side of the bed but they are in a woodland camo and the carfax didn't say anything about it being more than a SLT. The front shocks are red though and don't look like the cheapest ones that dodge would use.

 

You got different front shocks (struts) - that's the big difference.

Wheels: You can get 17x9 with 4-1/2" Backspacing. If you jump up to a 20, you can get a 20x9 with 4-1/2" ~ 5". The lower the number the more they'll stick outside your wheel wells.... also the more likely they'll rub on your fender / bumper when you turn. The more they stick out the more you'll stress your hubs and tie rod ends and reduce their lifespan.

You dont need to run a body lift to run 37's. You can get a 6" kit and get away with 37's just fine. 37's are a lot more money than 35's - so most people (including myself) opt for 35's. 35's look good with 4" of lift and make your truck still pretty easy to get into without running boards / steps. 37's look good at 6" of lift, and if you get gears you'll be fine.

 

The "beefier" is the shocks, NOT the rest of the suspension.

You don't have to stay with 33s, but I'd NOT go any higher than 35s on an IFS truck and I'd not go higher than 4" of suspension lift.
If you MUST run 37s then DO NOT run a 6" suspension kit to do it, YOUR CV ANGLES WILL BE TOO SEVERE. Instead run a combo 4" suspension lift and 3" of body lift as the body lift itself doesn't strain the suspension components.
The only people who should try to get away with 6" of suspension lift and 37" or taller tires on IFS trucks are either TOTAL pavement queens or those who know how to change a busted CV axle in the field.

I know I've put these up before, but I just couldn't resist...

 

So 35's with a 4" suspension lift is safe and I could run 37's if I did a 4" sus. lift and a 3" body lift but then I'd have to worry about the cv axles and ball joints and such still? Do you still not recommend this or is it the same stress on everything as the 35's? I'm not dead-set on the 37's, just like the amount of rubber showing with 20" rims.

The pics look like some nasty guacamole is in there lol.


I really appreciate you guys helping me out. I'd hate to do something that I'd have to replace later!

 

I'm personally NOT a fan of 37s on IFS trucks, the front ends are just not made for it. It amazes me how many guys buy a 1500 series truck and then want to run 37, 38 or even 40" tires when they could have just bought a 2500 series SFA truck that's made to handle it!

If it's the MEAT of the tires you want, then run 35s on 17 or 18" wheels. That setup is INFINITELY MORE functional off-road than 20" wheels anyway. IMO 20" wheels are for looks, 17s are for function.

Again if you just HAVE TO RUN 37s then THE SAFEST way is on a 4" suspension/ 3" body lift combo, however the weight of the 20" wheels AND 37" tires will still put more stress on the front end than running 35s...

 

sounds good. I think I will go with the 35's and smaller rims. I probably would have went with a 2500 had I known and I got this truck for a screamin' deal