3" body lift
#11
i can do any type of welding the only problem is that i dont own a welder. You said,
"the front bumper brackets actually bolt through the frame but I didnt feel like drilling holes so i welded them. same thing with the crush block under the bed. they are designed to be bolted in also using existing holes but welding was faster for me."
So i can just bolt those little metal blocks in as well as the front bumper brackets? What should i look out for when installing? I really dont want to mess anything up and having someone else do it isnt an option. Oh and whats the with the fan shroud? You dont have to cut it or anything?
"the front bumper brackets actually bolt through the frame but I didnt feel like drilling holes so i welded them. same thing with the crush block under the bed. they are designed to be bolted in also using existing holes but welding was faster for me."
So i can just bolt those little metal blocks in as well as the front bumper brackets? What should i look out for when installing? I really dont want to mess anything up and having someone else do it isnt an option. Oh and whats the with the fan shroud? You dont have to cut it or anything?
Last edited by 07ramhemi; 03-24-2010 at 10:36 PM.
#12
the zone kit relocates the fan shroud 3" lower so it stays with the fan. no hacking the shroud up with there kit.
yes, both the crush blocks and bumper brackets are designed to be bolted on. you need a 1/2" SHARP drill bit to drill the frame. when you go to cut the frame horns off it would be alot easier to use a sawzall with a new bi-metal blade. i used my grinder with cut-off wheel and took a bit longer. just take you time and mark the lines correctly and squarely all the way around the frame.
the zone crush blocks have a angled side to them so it lines up with a pre-existing hole on the bed cross member to bolt too. again, its designed for install by normal garage tools. Not too many people have a welder at there disposal. I had gotten my new one a week before that. i blew my last welder up over a year ago.
The zone kit says to drain the radiator and cut and install the extension in the lower RAD hose but mine had plenty of slack to stretch up with the move so i didn't do that. same thing with the fuel lines and parking brake cable. i didn't touch any of those.
yes, both the crush blocks and bumper brackets are designed to be bolted on. you need a 1/2" SHARP drill bit to drill the frame. when you go to cut the frame horns off it would be alot easier to use a sawzall with a new bi-metal blade. i used my grinder with cut-off wheel and took a bit longer. just take you time and mark the lines correctly and squarely all the way around the frame.
the zone crush blocks have a angled side to them so it lines up with a pre-existing hole on the bed cross member to bolt too. again, its designed for install by normal garage tools. Not too many people have a welder at there disposal. I had gotten my new one a week before that. i blew my last welder up over a year ago.
The zone kit says to drain the radiator and cut and install the extension in the lower RAD hose but mine had plenty of slack to stretch up with the move so i didn't do that. same thing with the fuel lines and parking brake cable. i didn't touch any of those.
#13
ok that was my next question about draining the radiator. i have an 07 so it should be the same. so what all do i not have to do and will it be safe? im going over their directions right now just so i know what to expect. seems like the hard part will be the front and rear bumpers and the blocks for the rear. oh do i have to do anything with the fuel door for the gas tank or anything like that? what all dont i have to do so i can modify the instructions?
Last edited by 07ramhemi; 03-24-2010 at 11:06 PM.
#14
the rear bumper is a piece of cake. you just replace the brackets. and the bumper will sit on a ledge while you bolt it back on too. the rear blocks are easy too. the only thing I really was worried about was the front bumper but it went on so nice.
I did not ......
1.drain the Rad and install the extension
2.disconnect and install the parking brake bracket extention
3.disconnect and install fuel vent extension and extend filler hose to edge of metal pipe and reclamp. i left them alone. (they were stuck to the pipe anyway)
4. factory S-bend air tube on intake. ( i dont have a factory intake so i didnt do that.)
remove and flip the rear dampener. the spare tire pole clears the top so i didnt see a need to flip it.
I did not ......
1.drain the Rad and install the extension
2.disconnect and install the parking brake bracket extention
3.disconnect and install fuel vent extension and extend filler hose to edge of metal pipe and reclamp. i left them alone. (they were stuck to the pipe anyway)
4. factory S-bend air tube on intake. ( i dont have a factory intake so i didnt do that.)
remove and flip the rear dampener. the spare tire pole clears the top so i didnt see a need to flip it.
#16
I took the screws out that hold the filler assembly to the bed side so it wont get caught and tear anything up but i didnt need to lengthen the lines though because when i tested to see how much extra room i needed it went almost all the way up and i used the screws to pull it tight the rest of the way and the rubber hoses still had some flex to them so they were too stressed. different trucks may be different. worst case scenario you had to take off the clamps and push the hoses to the edge just enough to get the clamp on and that should be just fine.