Well........the weather is supposed to be bright with sunny spells today.
Wish me luck.......gonna' do the tranny service.
New filters and partial fluid change.
Got my new torque wrench to play with lol.
Wish me luck.
Al.

 

Good Luck. i just did that a few months ago and will have to do it again before winter hits since my fluid was quite dirty before the last one and didn't get all the dirty crap out. no biggie. gives me another reason to play with the truck and get out in the garage. LOL

 

Good luck, if you havent already, look into getting some grade 5 or 8 pan bolts because those OEMs are easy to snap and break the heads off.

 

interesting... did not know that. i just torqued em with no probs. good to know.
ty

 

Well some guys have issues with over tightening things and they already are soft bolts going into aluminum so........... you get the picture.

 

I have my pan drop fluid swap coming up here pretty soon, but I have the Mag-Hytec pan waiting, and those come with stainless hex head bolts, hopefully I won't have any problems. In this guys DIY http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/ he explains that the stock bolts are grade 9.8 M6-1 bolts and are rated to withstand somewhere between 8.8 and 9.5 ft-lbs (depending on plating) before plastic deformation takes place and that the specs are to torque to 105in-lbs (9ft-lbs) which is a little close for my liking.

 

If you change out the large flat pancake filter, the seal up in the valve body is a right pig to pull out!
Just be careful everyone, when you do it. Don't scratch the soft inner surface of the valve body.
Refit the new seal first and then offer up the new filter into it. DO NOT put the seal on the filter then fit it. It will cause problems if you do.
Al.

 

true true... if i see something has torque values, i use it. but that's just me. reminds me of a guy at my last base that tried to be a smartbutt to a civilian that he had an auto-torque capable wrist that was set at 8in-oz. so he could torque RF connections without a torque wrench. DANGGG ... never seen the old guy ever cuss sooo much. LMAO

 

This does not make sense to me. He replaced a grade 9.8 bolt with a 8.8 (that is stainless even) and is happy about it? The 8.8 is rated lower than the 9.8 plus you have to factor in that stainless fasteners have a much larger tensile strength range due to inconsistencies in the alloy. Another thing to worry about with stainless is possible galling. The reason that stainless might make sense in this application is to avoid galvanic corrosion between the steel pan and aluminum trans case, but the majority of the interface is seperated with a gasket or RTV. I would think that you would be better off replacing all the bolts with the exact same grade 9.8, use anti-seize, and torque them per spec's. With the way OEM's are now using torque to yield fasterners all over the place, I would replace all bolts any time you take off things like: intake manifold, exhaust manifold, oil pan, tans pan, diff cover. Probably others that I'm missing as well. Anytime you put a bolt into aluminum, I would use anit-seize and torque to spec unless you want to risk drilling out and putting a heli-coil in. If you are still worried, go with a grade 10.9, but do not over torque it because you have a higher risk of trashing the aluminum thread before the bolt breaks.

 

BAHHH!! sounds like a lot of extra worrying. just glue the dang thing in place.

























j/k. please don't anyone do that. had a re-re do that to a carb.