1500 vs. 2500
bah, if you aren't doing it all the time you can get away with it in a 2500. I posted a pic of my truck with ~7000 lbs in the bed. Get some overloads and you'll be fine so long as the state patrol doesn't make you roll over the scales.
Drew, Actually there is a local dealer with a 2500 with the diesel that I'm kind of sweet on. I have to admit that I don't know that much about diesel. My conceptions (though probably wrong) are diesel fuel more difficult to find, slower acceleration, noisy, expensive to work on. Your thoughts?
Diesel is slightly more difficult to find, but not extremely so. You can just scout the local gas stations and memorize which ones have diesel.
Modern diesels are only marginally louder than comparibly sized gas engines.
Are they expensive to work on? I dunno. But you can go 2-3 times longer on an oil change, and you'll be working on the thing a hell of a lot less than a gas engine. Diesels are made to be super reliable (except for the Ford Powerjoke
) and super durable. By the time a truck with a HEMI finally gets an engine swap, the same truck (if it had the cummins) would merely be on its first major overhaul (350,000 miles to first major overhaul for Cummins, roughly 100,000 for a gas engine).
Are they slower than gas engines? Stock they'd probably be as quick or quicker than a HEMI Ram. Why? 325 hp and 610 lb-ft. of torque. Throw 4,000 lbs in the bed or a 45 foot trailer on the hitch and a Cummins Ram would embarras a Hemi Ram in 0-60. And if you tow a lot, the HEMI would be working a LOT harder than a cummins, therefore wear out a LOT quicker. That means more maintenance on the Hemi. And if you're really worried about acceleration, any decent tuner will be able to safely get 1000+ HP and well over 1000 lb-ft of torque out of a Cummins. Try that with a HEMI.
The HEMI is a great engine. But if you're going to be towing/hauling a lot, you'll spend less on fuel, be under the hood less, and spend less on maintenance with a Cummins.
Modern Diesel engines simply aren't the stereotypical oil burners of years past. They're high tech pieces of machinery.
Modern diesels are only marginally louder than comparibly sized gas engines.
Are they expensive to work on? I dunno. But you can go 2-3 times longer on an oil change, and you'll be working on the thing a hell of a lot less than a gas engine. Diesels are made to be super reliable (except for the Ford Powerjoke
) and super durable. By the time a truck with a HEMI finally gets an engine swap, the same truck (if it had the cummins) would merely be on its first major overhaul (350,000 miles to first major overhaul for Cummins, roughly 100,000 for a gas engine).Are they slower than gas engines? Stock they'd probably be as quick or quicker than a HEMI Ram. Why? 325 hp and 610 lb-ft. of torque. Throw 4,000 lbs in the bed or a 45 foot trailer on the hitch and a Cummins Ram would embarras a Hemi Ram in 0-60. And if you tow a lot, the HEMI would be working a LOT harder than a cummins, therefore wear out a LOT quicker. That means more maintenance on the Hemi. And if you're really worried about acceleration, any decent tuner will be able to safely get 1000+ HP and well over 1000 lb-ft of torque out of a Cummins. Try that with a HEMI.
The HEMI is a great engine. But if you're going to be towing/hauling a lot, you'll spend less on fuel, be under the hood less, and spend less on maintenance with a Cummins.
Modern Diesel engines simply aren't the stereotypical oil burners of years past. They're high tech pieces of machinery.
I'll take what was said above
if you have a high volume fuel dealer near by you can nab diesel for about 5 cents less than any where else. and have a lower risk of getting a bad tank of fuel or water.
oh, and if you think a stock Cummins is slow. . .this guy found out the hard way

if you have a high volume fuel dealer near by you can nab diesel for about 5 cents less than any where else. and have a lower risk of getting a bad tank of fuel or water.
oh, and if you think a stock Cummins is slow. . .this guy found out the hard way
Hey Drew, I'm the guy debating the Hemi vs. Diesel in a new 2500. I'm close to making a deal on a diesel. I've seen your posts around the forum site on various topics. I spoke with a diesel mechanic friend of mine. He recommends diesel. He also recommends preventative maintenance (oil change, fuel filter) more frequently than the service manual calls for. He informs me that it's not rocket science. I saw your post on fuel filter change. I've done work on my gas engines before. I'm not familiar with Diesel. Is there a "consumer" service manual I should get for performing my own maintenance? Do you recommend more frequent maintenance? Thanks
I'd just do it proportionately to what you would a gas engine. For example, Chrysler (and Ford and GM) recommends a 7,500 mile interval between oil changes on all Chrysler products (except Cummins). Do you actually change the oil after 7,500? No. Most people just blindly go by 3,000 because the oil companies tell you to (so they can make more money). Most cars can go safely to between 5,000-7,500 miles with average daily driving. If you're towing alot or drive like Bo and Luke Duke, expect between 3,000-5,000 because you're working your engine harder.
Is it safe to go the recommended service intervals under daily driving conditions? Yes. Just in case, though, you might go, say, 10,000 or so miles instead of the recommended 15,000 for an oil change. If you're towing a decent amount all the time, go around 7,500 (which I believe is what Dodge recommends for severe duty in the cummins).
I'd go to probably 3/4 of the recommended maintenance intervals to be safe. (unless, again, you're towing a lot)
Is it safe to go the recommended service intervals under daily driving conditions? Yes. Just in case, though, you might go, say, 10,000 or so miles instead of the recommended 15,000 for an oil change. If you're towing a decent amount all the time, go around 7,500 (which I believe is what Dodge recommends for severe duty in the cummins).
I'd go to probably 3/4 of the recommended maintenance intervals to be safe. (unless, again, you're towing a lot)
I do my oil changes on my yoda at 5K, on my diesel I go to 8-9k. the engine doesnt rev as high and thats where you loose oil life.
if you get a good filter and use good oil the engine will live a very happy life.
now while the service manual does say 15k. I do believe that is a bit excessive. 10k is about all I would go. but be fore warned. the oil gets black quick, thats the nature of a Diesel engine. it is just soot that is getting into the oil. it means nothing. if you get a good oil the deturgents in the oil will help break them down and keep the size of the soot particles to a minimum.
as for routine maintenance, everything is basicaly the same. tire rotation, ballanceing, diff fluid, tanny fluid, all that stays at the same interval. the only difference is that your gunna have an engine that will continue to pull strong long after the axels and fallen off, frame broken in half, and transmission has worn out.
I have a computer file done through excel that can help you keep track of these things. you set the mileage you want to have your maint. done and it will show you how many miles you have left. the only hard part is the initial setup with mileage. if your intrested I'll see if I can get it uploaded here. it will also work with gassers as well. and this program has a function to calculate fuel mileage and cost per mile
the only thing that makes me cringe is the fuel tab. but evey time I give this engine more throttle it makes me forget that
if you get a good filter and use good oil the engine will live a very happy life.
now while the service manual does say 15k. I do believe that is a bit excessive. 10k is about all I would go. but be fore warned. the oil gets black quick, thats the nature of a Diesel engine. it is just soot that is getting into the oil. it means nothing. if you get a good oil the deturgents in the oil will help break them down and keep the size of the soot particles to a minimum.
as for routine maintenance, everything is basicaly the same. tire rotation, ballanceing, diff fluid, tanny fluid, all that stays at the same interval. the only difference is that your gunna have an engine that will continue to pull strong long after the axels and fallen off, frame broken in half, and transmission has worn out.
I have a computer file done through excel that can help you keep track of these things. you set the mileage you want to have your maint. done and it will show you how many miles you have left. the only hard part is the initial setup with mileage. if your intrested I'll see if I can get it uploaded here. it will also work with gassers as well. and this program has a function to calculate fuel mileage and cost per mile

the only thing that makes me cringe is the fuel tab. but evey time I give this engine more throttle it makes me forget that
I'd like to see that program.
Wondering about the diesels - seems to be about a $6000 option, and by me (southeast PA) diesel prices are about60 - 80 cents more a gallon than regular, and they're only getting about 20 MPG, right? so is it really worth it?
Wondering about the diesels - seems to be about a $6000 option, and by me (southeast PA) diesel prices are about60 - 80 cents more a gallon than regular, and they're only getting about 20 MPG, right? so is it really worth it?
I have a 2500 Hemi, from what you are using the truck for, you should have at least a 2500 CTD. If I were in your shoes, and your dumping that kind of weight on a regular basis, a Ram 3500 CTD would be my choice hands down. A 1500 is out of the question.



