Chrome my 20's or Polished?
Were the wheels clear-coated before you "cleaned" them. Many "wheel cleaners" are meant to be used on raw aluminum and will craze clear-coat and that might be what you are seeing. If that's the case, the clear-coat will have to come off; the best way being to break down the wheels and do it chemically, preserving the polish job underneath.
I ALWAYS prefer polished aluminum to chroming over aluminum when it comes to wheels, and I have a lot of toys with many different wheel combos. My chrome plater has pointed out that the issues with plating aluminum wheels have not changed with their recent popularity. The main one is lifting the chrome where to tire seats against the wheel. This often happens when the wheel is broken down and it is more likely the longer the tire is on the rim. This guy does a lot of world-class work for me and seems to know his business (I once posted a pic or two of some of my engines here when I first became a member to show that people have different tastes and seemed to have freaked some out) .
For me the beauty of polished (nonclear-coated aluminum) is that it is easy to polish with Mother's (may favorite) or other aluminum polish and I find I must do so about once a year to keep such wheels in top shape. But, as they say, your mileage may vary since I keep my wheels clean and waxed at all times. Also, small dings that one is bound to get with driven vehicles can be sanded out, re-machine polished, and buffed with a die-grinder, Dremel tool, or drill and look as good as new.
All the best no matter what you decide.
I ALWAYS prefer polished aluminum to chroming over aluminum when it comes to wheels, and I have a lot of toys with many different wheel combos. My chrome plater has pointed out that the issues with plating aluminum wheels have not changed with their recent popularity. The main one is lifting the chrome where to tire seats against the wheel. This often happens when the wheel is broken down and it is more likely the longer the tire is on the rim. This guy does a lot of world-class work for me and seems to know his business (I once posted a pic or two of some of my engines here when I first became a member to show that people have different tastes and seemed to have freaked some out) .
For me the beauty of polished (nonclear-coated aluminum) is that it is easy to polish with Mother's (may favorite) or other aluminum polish and I find I must do so about once a year to keep such wheels in top shape. But, as they say, your mileage may vary since I keep my wheels clean and waxed at all times. Also, small dings that one is bound to get with driven vehicles can be sanded out, re-machine polished, and buffed with a die-grinder, Dremel tool, or drill and look as good as new.
All the best no matter what you decide.
To be honest, I'm not really sure if they are clear-coated or not. I'm positive, though, that I'm not seeing any kind of hazing or loss of luster. There are just very fine scratches that have appeared since the brush was used that were obviously caused by the bristles and their movement across the surface of the aluminum. You can tell because they're in the same circular pattern that my brother was using when going around the lug holes, etc. It's a shame because it was a pretty soft brush!
So, the wheels still look good, but those microscratches remain. That's what I'm aiming to get rid of.
I think some buffing with a very gentle swirl remover is exactly what I need. Thanks again for the responses!
So, the wheels still look good, but those microscratches remain. That's what I'm aiming to get rid of.
I think some buffing with a very gentle swirl remover is exactly what I need. Thanks again for the responses!
Here is what to do:
Get a small cotton buff, some fine paint polishing compound (many makes available but get "fine"), and a multi-speed drill. Put a little polish on the buff (careful for any metal on the end of the buff arbor--put duct tape over it so as not to futher scratch if it accidently contacts the wheel), Slowly buff a spot with "swirls"
If the buff turns black immediately you know you are dealing with bare aluminum and you can get brown tripoli, white rouge, and several bigger tightly sewn cotton buffs to polish and buff it all, if you wish. Use the tripoli until the surface is polished smooth and follow with the rouge on a clean buff for "color" buffing.
If no black on the small buff, the wheel is clear-coated and judicial and careful polishing with the small buff will get rid of the scratches IF not too deep AND if you do not first go through the clear-coat.
Again, best of luck.
Get a small cotton buff, some fine paint polishing compound (many makes available but get "fine"), and a multi-speed drill. Put a little polish on the buff (careful for any metal on the end of the buff arbor--put duct tape over it so as not to futher scratch if it accidently contacts the wheel), Slowly buff a spot with "swirls"
If the buff turns black immediately you know you are dealing with bare aluminum and you can get brown tripoli, white rouge, and several bigger tightly sewn cotton buffs to polish and buff it all, if you wish. Use the tripoli until the surface is polished smooth and follow with the rouge on a clean buff for "color" buffing.
If no black on the small buff, the wheel is clear-coated and judicial and careful polishing with the small buff will get rid of the scratches IF not too deep AND if you do not first go through the clear-coat.
Again, best of luck.
I have the aluminum 20's - they are clear coated. The only thing that ever needs polishing is the center hub cover.
Wouldn't it be possible to have then sand-blasted, polished and re-clear-coated?
I like the 20's for the handling, spin-free launches, load capacity (2600lbs@35psi) and the looks.
The base tires just spin - I can take my father-in-laws '04 Hemi all day long off the line - to at least 50mph. He spins - I punch it and move.
Dave
Wouldn't it be possible to have then sand-blasted, polished and re-clear-coated?
I like the 20's for the handling, spin-free launches, load capacity (2600lbs@35psi) and the looks.
The base tires just spin - I can take my father-in-laws '04 Hemi all day long off the line - to at least 50mph. He spins - I punch it and move.
Dave
I had the SAME problem, bought them on ebay, and I decided they needed a good cleaning, so I used a super extra fine steel wool... BAD IDEA!! I went to my friends shop, he gave me some of the mothers polish, I rubbed it on, then used a small buffer to buff it all off, all the little scratches came out NO PROBLEM!! took me less than an hour.... they look fantastic again...I also rubed some other finish polish after and rubbed it off, and it really made them shine, I can't remember what that stuff was but it was more like a sealer.... But don't panic, I think the mothers polish will be fine...
Just an FYI reading the previous comments, one usually doesn't sand blast aluminum. Typically, at most, one uses glass beads. With a previously polished surface, I'd suggest something less abrasive yet, such as one of the relatively new plastics or perhaps the old standby, crushed walnut shells (really).
All else being equal sand blasting is okay for heavy gauge steel, iron, glass etching, or hard rocks.
All else being equal sand blasting is okay for heavy gauge steel, iron, glass etching, or hard rocks.



