Hey all... I am looking to convert to HID lights for my head lights and fog light I was wondering if anybody has done this before who can give me some advice I.e. were to buy them color as well as weather or jot I need an in line resistor so my truck does not shut off the lights or is this a rumor thanks

 

HIDextra gives a discount to dodgeforum members. I like 10000k and 12000k. I currently have 12000k in both headlight and fog. Most people get 8000k or 10000k. If you purchase the true 55w hid conversion kit you will not need the resistor or so i've heard. If you get the 35w you will definitely need it. I'm not sure what type resistor is needed. maybe someone with that info will chime in.

 

thanks do you have any pics of you your headlights so i can see the 12000k alos how do i get the discount throuh hid extra?

 

Try this https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vendor-...m-members.html, Should answer any questions about them. I hope they are still doing this special.

This is an older pic of them but you get the idea.

 

These are the resistors needed for HIDs if your kit does not come with them

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2pcs-...Q5fAccessories

Man there are more than a FEW threads on this. Dont take it the wrong way but we get a lot of noobs with HID questions so there is plenty of info out there on it but I will sum it all up for you

Our trucks PCM and FCM read a resistance measurement through the headlight and tail light bulb filaments. When a filament blows the resistance drops and this lets the PCM/FCM know a bulb is out and two things happen here.

1) the modules reduce voltage and
2) the Lamp Out on the dash comes on to notify the driver

So because HIDs are gas filled and not a filament type bulb, when you plug them in the PCM/FCM module does not see "bulbs" and those two things stated above happen.

But because the voltage has been reduced, the HID kits will normally strobe or flicker.

The OEM filament type bulbs are 55w/65w bulbs. One the headlight harness plugs there are three wires. There is the low beam (12v), the high beam (12v) and the common (-).

So my taking 50 watt load resistors and adding them onto the HID harnesses, we can used them to replicate the resistance needed to trick the PCM/FCM into thinking there are bulbs there and that will reciprocate the two issues stated above. In other words, full voltage will be supplied and no Lamp Out light on the dash.

Specifically, the resistors get wired as such. We know there are two ends to each resistor and there are three wires on each headlight. Take one load resistor and splice it to the low beam (12v) wire and the other end to the common (-) wire. The other resistor goes with one end spliced to the high beam (12v) wire and the other to the same common (-) wire.

Now, the trick for powering everything works this way for xenon type kits. Bi-xenons are wired differently but because most of these HID kits that use bi-xenons in DRs do not produce good lighting in OEM headlight housings, no one really uses high beams or bi-xenon kits. So i wont get into the wiring of those type kits.

But xenon kits has a simple 4 or 5 pin 12v SPDT relay.

Pin 30 - goes to the battery with a fuse
Pin 87 - goes to both ballast
Pin 85 - goes to ground
Pin 86 - goes to the OEM low beam wire

Because the ballast require a solid and strong 12v, a heavier gauge wire is needed than the normal 18ga OEM trucks wire. So we use the 18ga headlight wire to power the relay since the relays coil need less than 200mA to power it and energize the coil. But in doing so the contacts will change from 87a to 87 and power the ballast from the battery feed source.

I think this covers everything.