2005 Ram 1500, 4.7L EGR Valve replacement.


I recently bought the above noted truck with 66k on it. About a few weeks later the engine light came on. With a code reader I got code P0604 (EGR Problem). After reading several of the post on this forum especially one from annonymous which I will quote below. I completed the repair successfully. I will post my pics as I could not find any for my year and motor. Hope this helps and encourages anyone needing to do the repair. It is my intention that my post will add to all the great info the DIY guys out there.



Pic 1. EGR Valve is just down and to the right of the light. (you will need a mirror to see where all bolts etc are). Also, you will have to remove some of the air intake to make laying and reaching around to the back of the enging possible. This is an expensive repair, because it is in a horrible place to work.







PIC 2. Pointing to where EGR valve can be found with part removed but still connected (the connector was stuck and needed some gentle help releasing with a flat screwdriver. (On my truck it is definately not nicely located at the front of the engine next to the alternator).






PIC 3. Old part on its way out. - Some folks write you can clean this. With all the effort required to remove it - I just put in new stock part from the dealer. Which is $132 in Canada. (You guys in the USA are so lucky to have so much access to cheap new parts!)





PIC 4. View of where the valve sits at the back of the motor. Make sure to scrape off all of the old gasget left behind.






PIC 5. Finally New part installed. What a pain in the butt.


Below I will quote what annonymous posted on this forum (so the info is all in one place). Please read. It was thanks to this info that I was able to get my job done - worth looking at and checking out the links.

Annonymous posted these links (thanks dude)
Here are the pages for EGR removal and installation from the factory service manual. Only 7 pages in PDF format, file size is 277.88 KB

http://stashbox.org/418787/Dodge%20R...from%20FSM.pdf


and wrote:
Quote:
Its located on the rear of the driver's side head. Its actually very bad to change.
If you look at the left side of the plastic intake manifold, a bit to the rear of the throttle body you will find a metal tube coming off, it makes a 90 deree bend to the rear. Follow this tube to the rear of the left head, and you'll find the egr valve. Its in about the most horrible spot you could imagine. You'll have to lay on the engine to replace it. A drop light is a must.

The EGR tube comes into the left side of the valve. It has 2 8mm bolts that hold it on. I always use a 1/4" drive 8mm swivel socket and a 3" extension. There really isn't much of a choice. Be careful when you get about done removing it, the gasket may fall and your new valve won't come with one. There's an alternate way to get the tube off, I'll get to that.

To remove the valve from the head you have to remove 2 10mm bolts. The bolts go straight down from the top. Don't bother looking for them, you have to feel for them.

The other thing you can do is remove the 2 bolts that hold the valve to the head and remove the valve and tube together. When you put it back together you have to leave the tube loose from the valve or you'll never get the bolts back in the valve-to-head joint.

After you're done replacing it (if you even decide to once you find it!), disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This will clear out the false fuel adaptives that have been recorded in the engine controller's memory.

That's it folks.
Dodge Rules!

PS. Thinking about getting an aftermarket throttle body for 05 4.7L V8, Now that I have installed an Airaid MIT. Anyone got any experience or suggestions on a good one.

Cheers.

 

Awesome post....

Yesterday I got the dreaded 0406 on my 2005 4.7L w/54K miles. I was not successful at finding the EGR valve at the more popular auto part stores and it helped that I was off today (Holiday) to look at how much work it would take to replace the part once I found it.

Being the lazy person that I am, I was not looking forward to working back behind the engine where this part sits. The pictures in this thread were extremely helpful.

But I got to thinking about it.... the EGR is nothing more than a motorized valve that (especially when the engine is cold) opens up to let unspent exhaust gases mix in the intake to recover unburnt gases. There are 2 sections of the part: a small electrical motor that spins a plunger to open a gap and let the gasses back into the intake, and the base where the pipes connect and where the plunger sits.

I thought that if I tapped the base a few times, I might be able to loosen the corrosion (or whatever got the little electrical motor stuck). It was a long shot but a lot less work than replacing the part.

I found a 3" 1/2 copper pipe I had in the garage and put it up against the base of the EGR. I then took a hammer and tapped the EGR valve a few times. When I started up the truck, the check engine light was still on but en route to the NAPA store who carried the part ~$50, the Check Engine light went out.

I've used the truck a few times since and the light has not come back on. I assume that the problem may be solved (for now) and if it comes back I'll try this again before replacing the EGR valve.

Regards,

Luigi

 

excellent pics and a way to motivate others to do their own work.

 

i too have had to replace the egr valve / the dealer wanted $250 to do it. i got the part for $50 and did it in an hr or less. very easy to do.

 

Good for you. I must be slow. The parts and labour is more expensive up here.

 

use the internet to buy your parts...much cheaper. and search the internet on how to fix it. for me it was 4 bolts a plug and a gasket. unhook the battery and code is gone and all fixed. i had no idea on how to do it . untill i checked.the dealer acted like my truck was going to die if they did not do it now...lol...even put on the ticket i refused it. you can do it in under an hour easy.

 

I did mine on my Hemi about two months ago, $38 at my local Advance Auto. Didn't have any issues with my old one, but I'm about to hit 50k miles and I figured it was time to swap the original one out. Turns out the original was not near as dirty as I thought it would be and wasn't gummed up at all. I cleaned it and stuck it in the box the new one came in as a spare.

Hemi is 10x easier to swap than the 4.7. Hemi is right up front, 10 minute job. 4.7 is against the back fire wall and in most cases requires removing intake components. I prolly need to do the one on the 4.7 HO in my Jeep, but prolly won't until it pops a CEL just because it's more of a PIA to get to...

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_5723419_repl...dodge-ram.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/egr.../ram_1500.html

 

When I did my Hemi swap to my Kota- I bypassed the EGR - Someone please throw me some pro's and cons to having one and exactly what are they meant to do..
Thank You..
/George/...

 

EGR = Exhaust gas recirculation. Basically it takes some exh gas and puts it back in the combustion chamber to be burnt off

Bypassing usually means less MPG.