Vents Only Blow Hot On Passenger Side...
#13
No Heat and Heat
I tried the first test AaronOregon suggested. I removed the glove box and felt behind the panel to place my fingers on the blend door actuator. I moved the dash dial from cold to hot and could feel the actuator working quite nicely and it seemed to travel as far as necessary.
I also warmed the truck up and felt the two hoses going to the heater core from the engine bay. They both felt equally warm.
I think me next attempt will be to back flush the heater core to try to see if I have a partial blockage and then try to eliminate any air pockets in the system.
It is odd to me to think that these things could cause my system to operate the way it is now: I have heat on passengers side, seems like fan air flow is less than on drivers. I have no heat on drivers side, but strong air flow. It s October time to get this all fixed. This AM is was 36 on my way to work.
Thanks for everyones suggestions!
I also warmed the truck up and felt the two hoses going to the heater core from the engine bay. They both felt equally warm.
I think me next attempt will be to back flush the heater core to try to see if I have a partial blockage and then try to eliminate any air pockets in the system.
It is odd to me to think that these things could cause my system to operate the way it is now: I have heat on passengers side, seems like fan air flow is less than on drivers. I have no heat on drivers side, but strong air flow. It s October time to get this all fixed. This AM is was 36 on my way to work.
Thanks for everyones suggestions!
#14
I just redid my whole ac system and heater core this spring due to my compressor locking up and then the heater core leaking.
The heater core is tiny. Like they are an 8 inch by 8 inch square. So its not very likely to a hot and cold spot on it. You said the passenger side works fine. So the heater system is working fine. They are about 6 doors that control air flow in the hvac box. There are two doors that move together to control the temperature.
Yes the motors are turning, but those hardly fail. What usually happens is the doors will strip on the motor shaft causing them to hang there or they we break and fall off.
There is a video on here that shows a guy fixing them but doesnt remove the dash and just cuts holes in the box. I would never do this. The dash is a pain, but it isnt bad. I've done it and could probably do it again in a few hours.
You need to fix your blend doors.
The heater core is tiny. Like they are an 8 inch by 8 inch square. So its not very likely to a hot and cold spot on it. You said the passenger side works fine. So the heater system is working fine. They are about 6 doors that control air flow in the hvac box. There are two doors that move together to control the temperature.
Yes the motors are turning, but those hardly fail. What usually happens is the doors will strip on the motor shaft causing them to hang there or they we break and fall off.
There is a video on here that shows a guy fixing them but doesnt remove the dash and just cuts holes in the box. I would never do this. The dash is a pain, but it isnt bad. I've done it and could probably do it again in a few hours.
You need to fix your blend doors.
#16
I now have heat from both sides.
I did as AaronOregon suggested and now I have a ton of heat from both sides!
I have only single zone heat so, AaronOregon suggested to remove the glove box and reach behind and feel if the actuator was working when moving the dial from hot to cold. I felt that it was working. So I decided to take his next bit of advice and back flush the heater core and re-fill the system.
What I did was, undo the heater core hoses from the engine and gently back flush the heater core catching the first bit with a bucket. I didnt have any fancy gear to to do this, I just had a hose nozzle that had a rounded brass end that snuggly fit into the heater hose end. I also alternated which hose I ran water through to cycle it back and forth a few times. I then reconnected everything and left the radiator cap off so that I could eliminate air and fill the system to capacity with new fluid. To my surprise, I had strong heat from both the drivers and passengers sides. I test drove the truck last night to make sure nothing was wrong -leaks, overheating etc.
Before I started the truck up I checked that the coolant tank showed the correct level at the cold mark. It was fine, so I was on my way. This AM the outside temp at 42 and I had toasty heat!
Thanks to everyones contributions to help trouble shoot.
I have only single zone heat so, AaronOregon suggested to remove the glove box and reach behind and feel if the actuator was working when moving the dial from hot to cold. I felt that it was working. So I decided to take his next bit of advice and back flush the heater core and re-fill the system.
What I did was, undo the heater core hoses from the engine and gently back flush the heater core catching the first bit with a bucket. I didnt have any fancy gear to to do this, I just had a hose nozzle that had a rounded brass end that snuggly fit into the heater hose end. I also alternated which hose I ran water through to cycle it back and forth a few times. I then reconnected everything and left the radiator cap off so that I could eliminate air and fill the system to capacity with new fluid. To my surprise, I had strong heat from both the drivers and passengers sides. I test drove the truck last night to make sure nothing was wrong -leaks, overheating etc.
Before I started the truck up I checked that the coolant tank showed the correct level at the cold mark. It was fine, so I was on my way. This AM the outside temp at 42 and I had toasty heat!
Thanks to everyones contributions to help trouble shoot.
#17
Hey man, glad it worked out for you! I still don't really know if mine just needed flushing again (I had just done it last month) or there was a air pocket of some type in there, but it works like a champ now! I lean towards the air pocket the way it was gurgling in the heater core.
Aaron
Aaron
#18
#19