Frozen Brake Rotors
Hi Guys,
New to this site, first post. Hope I can get some help here. I have an '04 2500 4X4 Diesel. I have to do the first brake job on the front end due to a frozen caliper. Got everything off, but the rotors are frozen, bad. Like I said, first time they are coming off since new. This truck sees a lot of winter driving in Canada. It does get washed out but you can't get it all. Anyway, I have been soaking the area with PB Blaster, Open and Shut, and WD40 for about 14 hrs. I have beat them senseless with a 12lb sledge. I have used a torch to heat it. Can't budge them. I need this job done by the end of the weekend and I'm afraid it won't happen. Every on line manual says a couple of taps and they'll be loose, yea in a fantasy world. Does anyone have a trick, short of taking hub and all off that I can try? The hub bolts won't budge either. Also, can beating on these things like this damage anything else? How about the heat? I know there have been posts on this subject, but they all turned out ok. So far, not mine! Thanks.
New to this site, first post. Hope I can get some help here. I have an '04 2500 4X4 Diesel. I have to do the first brake job on the front end due to a frozen caliper. Got everything off, but the rotors are frozen, bad. Like I said, first time they are coming off since new. This truck sees a lot of winter driving in Canada. It does get washed out but you can't get it all. Anyway, I have been soaking the area with PB Blaster, Open and Shut, and WD40 for about 14 hrs. I have beat them senseless with a 12lb sledge. I have used a torch to heat it. Can't budge them. I need this job done by the end of the weekend and I'm afraid it won't happen. Every on line manual says a couple of taps and they'll be loose, yea in a fantasy world. Does anyone have a trick, short of taking hub and all off that I can try? The hub bolts won't budge either. Also, can beating on these things like this damage anything else? How about the heat? I know there have been posts on this subject, but they all turned out ok. So far, not mine! Thanks.
sometimes its a pain, especially up north. Dont heat them either. Watch this
http://torxx.com/2010/08/16/replaced...-on-the-truck/
http://torxx.com/2010/08/16/replaced...-on-the-truck/
I posted up that same link Matt99 a few months ago.
It worked a treat for a guy having similar probs as Snomizer.
Give it a try bud.........make sure you get good quality grade bolts and nuts though.
Al.
It worked a treat for a guy having similar probs as Snomizer.
Give it a try bud.........make sure you get good quality grade bolts and nuts though.
Al.
Thanks Matt99 for that video. I will give that a try this morning. I was finally able to get 1 off yesterday after about 6 hrs. more spraying, beating and heating. I was getting nervous cause I actually started to break big pieces off the rotor with the sledgehammer! Naturally, the other side is the same way. That ones been soaking overnight so hopefully with the bolt trick, I won't have to beat on it all day. I just can't see it popping off like that the way I've been beating it, but, fingers are crossed. Was I right to put anti-seize on the hub flange when I put the new rotors on? Thanks again.
Anti-Seize couldn't hurt, as long as you haven't put too much on there?
Don't want that stuff being flung onto the rotors or pads due to centrifugal force.
Just a smear will do nicely.
Also, put some onto the hub face where the studs poke through.
This will help stop the wheels from sticking to them due to crud and salt in the winter months etc, making it easy to remove your wheels next time.
Al.
Don't want that stuff being flung onto the rotors or pads due to centrifugal force.
Just a smear will do nicely.
Also, put some onto the hub face where the studs poke through.
This will help stop the wheels from sticking to them due to crud and salt in the winter months etc, making it easy to remove your wheels next time.
Al.
Snow,
I went through the same exercise a few months back, the reason you're having so much trouble is caused by rust growth BEHIND the bearing hub on the rotor itself. I ended up using an impact chisel on the back side of the rotor to knock the rust of off---tons!!!!, then the rotor popped right off. The growth is on the rotor backside that is 90 deg to the back side of the bearing hub. When I di finally replace my rotors, the new will be glass beaded in that area and urethane coated to prevent that from happening again. All those hammer blows aren't doing the very expensive bearing hubs any good---not to mention, its just one huge PIA.
I went through the same exercise a few months back, the reason you're having so much trouble is caused by rust growth BEHIND the bearing hub on the rotor itself. I ended up using an impact chisel on the back side of the rotor to knock the rust of off---tons!!!!, then the rotor popped right off. The growth is on the rotor backside that is 90 deg to the back side of the bearing hub. When I di finally replace my rotors, the new will be glass beaded in that area and urethane coated to prevent that from happening again. All those hammer blows aren't doing the very expensive bearing hubs any good---not to mention, its just one huge PIA.



