HIDs are the ****. I will never own another vehicle without them. Like Bent said, you can get Hella's and wire them up to run with your highs, it really is not hard at all. I think I paid $65 for my Hella 500ff at Walmart

 

Check the HID stickied thread at the top of this section

 

You mean fogs and highbeams? That would be acceptable as they use seperate common traces. There is no downside to running highs/fogs at the same time with a britebox or other fancy designed circuitry. Afterall, there IS a setting via starscan tool called "International" that would allow the fogs to stay on with the brights. This is a factory setting, but die to the US laws that govern the fogs to be off when highbeams are in use depletes us out of that luxury.
I mean, if your using your highbeams, your clearly not behind or facing anyone so I just don't understand why that law is even in place. Seems silly to me.

As far as using "brighter" bulbs or bulbs like the Silverstars... They have a whiter light that actually produces LESS lumens because of their color. Yellow light like a standard halogen bulb will put out more useseable light than a Silverstar will because the Silverstars are verging on blue which is useless light. These so-called claims of brighter output are false. The output "appears" brighter to the human eye, but in reality it isn't.
Any of those bulbs that do actually have a brighter ouput such as the GE nighthawks...They draw excessive current through your lines so they are capable of melting harnesses. i believe they run 65w on low and 70w on high??? I know they aren't marked that because they would never be DOT approved to make all that money, but the trick is inside with the flament.
ANY bulb that has a coating has a lower output..PERIOD.

 

No, theres one that actually allows the fogs and dims to come on with the brights.

And I have to agree... what a stupid law to not allow fog lights on with the brights. Makes no sense.

 

Yeah, those are no-go. Anytime you run highs and lows together, your over drawing current. Not good.

 

How do company's get away with producing stuff that is unsafe? What a crock.

 

Because it's all labeled..."for offroad use only". Those words remove any warranty and/or liability. it's a loophole they work through, plus it would take some time before your sockets actually melted if you used them in brief spurts, but with your TIPM controlled eletronics, I wouldn't chance it unless you knew excatly how they made the kit and how it performed.
Most kits on the market cut corners and don't use simple diode's or other inexpensive saftey features to provide a fail safe.
I mean, you got these "high output" bulbs that draw 75watts through stock electrical system and cause melted wires and the market fix for this is install harness extensions...lol Harness extensions only beefs up the wires at the end, but still draws 75watts worth of current through the tiny OEM electrical wires on the other end.
There does need to be more control out there, but unfortunately.....there isn't.