I have been looking at some of your post here and there is a lot of good info, Props out to every one here.

This is my first post and a huge problem for my truck!

I have a Ram 1500 with the 4.7 JTEC 16 tooth tone wheel. The motor kicked the bucket on the first owner so i picked the truck up for cheap.

I head over to the junk yard and pick up a 4.7 from a Durango the guy said it was a match to my engine. we got the donor motor mounted in the truck and every thing hooked up. When we went to crank it up it would rotate but not start, she would pop off every so often and pop out of the intake. I was it was a CAS or CPS and started doing some searching just to find out the issue with the 16/32 tooth tone wheels.

So here is where i stand. I drove from south louisiana to Dallas Tx to pick up this motor so driving back is going to be cumbersome. The yard said this was the last dodge 4.7 they had.

I am going to try to talk them in to refunding the amount of money it will cost me to change the 16 tooth wheel into the new engine. I need a list of parts and problems i may encounter on this project.

From my searches i think i will need

Rod bearings
Main bearings
Timing seal kit
Rear Main seal
Block Seal "the gasket that goes in between upper oil pan and the block"
rod nuts "as they are torque to yield"

I already have new rocker box gaskets on the donor motor.

Can i reuse the main bolts or do i need to replace them also?
Did i miss any thing?

 

Here's what sucks about this idea. Now, your gonna involve yourself into tearing apart 2 motors and also relying upon your used parts on the damaged engine are going to be good and reliable in the Durango one? Are you certain they are good before cutting this deal? Sounds like alot of work nonetheless and it would almost make more sense to try and sell the wrong replacenemt and just purchase the correct one? There are plenty of low mileage one's on Ebay for well under $2k shipped.
If you must tear down both engine's, you won't need to buy anything other than seals. You would simply inspect the main bearings for wear and go from there. Installing new bearings without having the crank done that has not been properly checked will delay the inevitable IMO, so you gotta know the specs and how to properly take measurements. so, again, better off not even getting involved with all that and merely change out what needs to be changed out.
Pretty sure the main bolts are re-useable and are not TTY.

Don't forget you'll need RTV sealant and if the seal is a 2 piecer, you'll need some special rtv that's very pliable.

 

I am not new to the mechanic thing, have rebuilt many mitsubishi 4g64's and a few toyota 22R's in my time. The measurements is no biggy ill just have the machine shop do it when i get the crank cleaned.

Infact i have pulled the crank from the motor that came out my truck and dropped it by the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected. I have new main and rod bearings on order with the machine shop. I have also order the new rod bolts from the dealer.

Autozone has the front, rear timing and oil pan seals i need.

The bone yard agreed to pay for the parts to do the job.

It should cost about 300 total with all new seals and bearings.

Ill take some pix and post all the part numbers and prices when i am done to pass the info on to who ever else may end up with this screw up.

AT