Check the spacer tab/alignment tab on the passengerside. Mine was grinding into the header on the passengerside. Trimmed it up and it got rid of the sound.

 

i got a tapping sound as well with my pc long tube i also removed cats and it was so beast it rattled my tips but it echoed every were i thought it was my starter! i also cut off tab

 

Pacesetter LTs with Mopar exh gaskets and also trimmed the pass side trans tab and no leaks. Can you get some baby power and throw all up there around the flange and crank it and look for a leak?

 

Anyone? Looking to do this soon.

 

Yes, there was definitely a leak. New remflex gasket on that side fixed it. I was very **** installing it, cleaned everything real well, torqued everything super careful and even. I am considering doing the other side with the better gasket but i figure if i don't hear it leaking... The gasket I pulled off was all torn/carboned up. And yes, I do hear the ticking and expected that. It's just an enhanced hemi tick. Loud exhaust valves. I'm confident now in saying that the hemi tick i'm hearing is from noisy hydraulic lifters that are clattering/ticking. When I finally get the ***** up to do a cam swap it'll probably be something ill look into straightening out.

 

They're not bad but expect to run into problems. If you have some mechanical know-how and a lot of tools you'll be just fine. Some things you'll want are sawzalls, many/various sockets/wrenches/u-joints, possibly a welder, steady hands, patience, jack to possibly lift the engine slightly depending on the headers of choice. Be careful, take everything slowly, and do it right the first time. Should take you no more than 6 hours if you have a good idea of what you're doing ahead of time. Have at least 1 buddy standing by for help when you need it - you WILL need it. (good luck trying to align the header with the holes in the block and avoid ruining the gasket by yourself)

 

I know i used the sawzall when i took mine down. The manifold bolts and manifolds were fine but that bolt that connects the manifold to the exh pipes were rusted and kept spinning around on me

 

ok for all you people that have done this. ALL dodge manafolds are threw bolted. and the easiest way to get them out is to cut them between the flanges. for anyone going to do headers. time is money is the saying everyone uses. NOT in this case this is the head we are removing bolts from not fun when you brake ****. also depending on how rusted **** it. normally i cut the heads of the manifold bolts off with a torch or grinder. slid the manifold off then go after the stud with vice grips. and a torch. (ovesly not to hot on the al heads). most people with experance can do headers in a few hours easy every day joe smoe is talking about 10 to 12 hours easy. also best tip in the world dont use the header gaskets. use stock mopar manifold gaskets. you put the two end bolts in the header. drop the gasket in (because its slotted on the ends tighten them down then install the rest of the header bolds. no ****ing around and no leaks. i have installed probably 100 to 150 sets of headers. between race cars and street cars and trucks.

 

i always use soapy water to check for leaks make sure the motor is cold or it willl just make steam (duh) spray on there and have somone turn the motor over and look for bubbles its worked every time for me

 

Sweet, thanks for all of the help. I will be ordering mine up soon as a graduation present to myself