As far as testing the Fuel pump and rail, you can get a fuel guage from harbor freight for 20$. There is a connection on the rail for the attachment. Make sure you have thread tape, as mine wasnt leak proof without it. I attached the guage and mounted it onto the firewall for monitoring whenever I need.

As far as the coils, I just swapped them around to see if the problem followed and got the CEL code for a diferent cylinder. Mine were all fine.

Good luck and sorry I cannot help more

 

Hey guys. Just wanted to put some closure to this thread. I went ahead and replaced the crankshaft sensor, no deal. Bought a new PCM online for $225 (already programmed for my vehicle) and it did seem to help the truck run a little better (when you got it to crank with the gas pedal to the floor), but the truck would still not idle, missed like hell and made a tapping sound.

Had to towed to Shop #1 (the guy did me right when I had 2 exhaust manifold studs broken and my Dodge dealer was trying to tell me that I needed a new transmission....when I was just out of warranty). He looked at it for all of 10 mins and said I needed a new motor. $6k to install a remanufactured long block or $4.5k for a junkyard motor.

Had it towed to Shop #2 yesterday (cost me $40) and the guy called this morning to say all I needed was a new valve spring. No damage was done to the valve or piston. He's also changing an O2 sensor, checking out some heater circuit issue that he got a code for, giving it a tune up and changing the oil for under $900.

Hopefully this post helps someone in the future. Even with the new computer, I was still getting a 'No Bus' on the odometer when I hooked up the code reader.

Thanks again to the ones that replied. You guys are alright.