Replacing rear u bolts, couple ?'s
My first post is a question, been a long time reader. After replacing a bad front wheel bearing, and bad (old) tires the death wobble is gone. I still have a vibration when accelerating and when at +- 70MPH. I checked and it is the rear u joints. I marked the shaft and pulled it out and am about to start driving the old u joints out. A few questions:
What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts that attach the drive shaft to the rear axle?
Should I use blue lock tight on those?
When I pulled the shaft from the transmission a little oil came out. Is this gear oil? If so what weight do I need to put back in and where?
This is a 2003 RAM 2500 HD Hemi Auto trans with 1 piece rear drive shaft.
Many thanks in advance.
What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts that attach the drive shaft to the rear axle?
Should I use blue lock tight on those?
When I pulled the shaft from the transmission a little oil came out. Is this gear oil? If so what weight do I need to put back in and where?
This is a 2003 RAM 2500 HD Hemi Auto trans with 1 piece rear drive shaft.
Many thanks in advance.
Another more important question has come up. I am beating this thing to death w a sledge and a socket... It moved... but the opposite side is only flush now. Do I continue the beating? I tried using a pulley puller with no joy,. Any help greatly appreciated.
Fluid is ATF+4 Transmission fluid. Fill through dip-stick tube under the hood.
I'd just use the 'ol german torque spec on the 4 bolts. (good-n-tight)
Lock-tite isn't a bad idea if it worries you.
Keep beating. I usually hit on the horizontal ears of the joint to remove the old caps, outward on both. Then clamp in a vise to re-install.
I'd just use the 'ol german torque spec on the 4 bolts. (good-n-tight)
Lock-tite isn't a bad idea if it worries you.
Keep beating. I usually hit on the horizontal ears of the joint to remove the old caps, outward on both. Then clamp in a vise to re-install.
Thank you very much.
An update. I beat the thing to death with the 3 lb sledge and it just stopped moving. Tried liquid wrench, no joy. What did work is heating with a torch for about 6 seconds.
Here is the bad part. I finished the job and went for a test drive. The shake is gone, hooray. Went out to the freeway and hit 70... "ka chunk"... one of the caps came out despite me checking the clips 3 times. I got extremely luck, the drive shaft stayed put, no damage. I had my wife bring me the spare u joint, and spent 45 minutes under the truck re-doing the job with just three tool, a 3lb sledge, needles nose and a 15mm socket. This was a moog part too, part 330A.
I am fairly certain the retaining clips are not specced correctly as I checked three times. I am going to replace the moog parts with spicers. Thanks for the info and listening
An update. I beat the thing to death with the 3 lb sledge and it just stopped moving. Tried liquid wrench, no joy. What did work is heating with a torch for about 6 seconds.
Here is the bad part. I finished the job and went for a test drive. The shake is gone, hooray. Went out to the freeway and hit 70... "ka chunk"... one of the caps came out despite me checking the clips 3 times. I got extremely luck, the drive shaft stayed put, no damage. I had my wife bring me the spare u joint, and spent 45 minutes under the truck re-doing the job with just three tool, a 3lb sledge, needles nose and a 15mm socket. This was a moog part too, part 330A.
I am fairly certain the retaining clips are not specced correctly as I checked three times. I am going to replace the moog parts with spicers. Thanks for the info and listening
I searched for the correct spicer u joint and I cant find it. Anyone know what spicer is equivalent to the MOOG 330A?
Update: The dimensions are:
cap diameter 1.118"
width 4.178"
Update: The dimensions are:
cap diameter 1.118"
width 4.178"
Last edited by Fl2500; Mar 19, 2012 at 10:53 AM.



