Set out to replace my front struts on my '07 4x4 and found that it was more difficult than I anticipated. Looked high and low through the threads and couldn't find any good how to's. Got the top three nuts off, and the bottom bolt out of the strut, but now what? I didn't look at it real close once I realized there's no clearance to pull the strut. I imagine I have to pull the A arm, correct? Once I get the strut out, will I be able to use a stock rental spring compressor to get the spring off the shock and onto the new one? Any other tips from those that have traveled down this road?

 

If I remember Right(it's been a while) but I pulled the outer tie rod nut and the lower ball joint nut and tapped the spindle with a hammer to pop it free. You can remove whatever you think you need to in order to get it out though. You're gonna need an alignment regardless so don't be afraid to take it apart. But I think that's what I removed and was able to slide it out. Then just use the spring compressor and reverse the process.

 

Found this in an old thread:Remove nut/bushing/plate for sway bar end link. Remove nut for tie rod end, and pop tie rod end loose from knuckle with a bfh. Loosen 3 nuts on top of strut. Loosen bolt/nut attaching strut to lower a arm. Support lower a arm with a jack. Remove nut from ball joint on upper a arm. Smack the side of the knuckle, near the ball joint, with a bfh until the ball joint pops free. It should pop out after a few good wacks. Remove three nuts from top of strut. Remove nut/bolt from lower strut mount. Slowly drop jack supporting the lower a arm. let the whole thing sag down and remove the strut. Reverse to install. You may need a spring compressor to fit the new strut back in. Get an alignment before you drive the thing too much.

 

Well, it's done. I had to undo the brake caliper, the steering ball joint, the sway bar, and the upper ball joint to get them out. I loosened the lower ball joints, but I'm not sure that was necessary. I then had to take them to a shop to get the springs off and back on. Would have done it myself, but I've heard I needed a wall mounted spring compressor to get them off and back on, so I opted to let a pro do it. Unfortunately, that part alone set me back $100, but at least it's done and I didn't have to fight with the seized shock nut to get it out of the strut.

 

I just finished this job so I thought I'd ad my 2 cents worth. Only took about 2 and a half hours. Local shops wanted 550 bucks to do it. First of all I ordered new struts online at autoparts123.com because they were the cheapest.(229 bucks to the door for both, use the discount code frugal and it saved me 10 bucks) Every auto parts store around wanted 189 bucks a piece for them. I bought the whole Monroe 171111 assembly so I didnt have to screw with a spring compressor. It was only about 30 bucks more per side for the entire thing already put together and ready to go. They even included new nylock nuts for the top.
I was gonna take some pics as I was doing it but they came out kind of dark so I'll scan in a couple of pages from my book so you can see the stuff that has to come loose.
When I take the brake caliper off I always hang it with a piece of wire or sting from something up above so it isnt dangling from the hose. It might crack and ruin it. Also on the drivers side there is another wire, I think its the speed sensor that had to be taken out of its little tie rap like hanger up above to give it a little slack when you lower everything down enough to get the strut out. There wasnt one on the pass side. You'll see what I mean when you get the caliper off.
I put the front of the truck on 2 jack stands then used my floor jack under the lower arm to support it so it didnt come falling down all at once. I also dont have a ball joint seperator and didnt need one. I learned that all you need is a decent hammer. Once you get the nut off just whack the thing (where I drew an arrow on page 71 of my attachments). You have to hit it on a couple different side but it will pop loose. Lower the jack a little so there is some weight helping it down. I also sprayed a little WD in the crack to help get it moving. The stablizer link I had to kind of tap on because the threads kind of binded when it was coming down. It says to remove the axle hub nut but that was bs and I didnt have to. Once everything came down I was able to just jostle out the old strut and stick the new one in. I got the 3 nuts on top started then got the bottom bolt lined up using the jack to help lift everything. You'll notice on one of the pages I scanned it says the weight of the vehicle should be on before you tighten everything so I left everything loose a little till I got the wheels on and set it on the floor then climbed under and tightened everything. It drives staight just like before so I dont know why I would need an alignment but I might have one done anyway just in case the tires might wear unever or something. I figure the money I saved doing it myself more than paid for a 50 dollar alignment. Hope this helps....Great this thing wont let me attach anthing. I'll figure it out and get them on here later.