Rear Axle Assembly Help
#1
Rear Axle Assembly Help
Hello DodgeForum.com I'm a new member to this forum. I have used this forum for many of my Dodge needs but never had a question until now.
Truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QC
4.7l A/T Transmission 9 1/4" 3.92 (OPEN/NON-LSD) rear end
The rear end has been whining for a while now and it hasn't really gotten worse. Its a constant whine while in motion i haven't really cared about replacing/fixing this issue until now. I'm expecting my first newborn around June 2nd and i want a safe and a "issue" free truck.
I am a mechanic so i have resources and tools, but I have never messed with any kind of rear ends. I had a 25+ Mechanic tell me just to source me a new whole axle assembly from a salvage/junk yard, but most i found were in the ball park of $900-1300 with miles ranging from 60k-90k. My biggest issue is that this problem started around 94k so i'd rather rebuild it myself with help of the master tech i work with.
My biggest question is what all do i need to buy in parts to completely overhaul everything within the housing, i plan to replace all the seals, bearings, and gears. I just bought a Chilton for my truck but I wasted my money since it didnt give me any info and Mitchell is just a pain in my a** to use.
Any kind of help/guidance will be greatly appreciated.
Truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QC
4.7l A/T Transmission 9 1/4" 3.92 (OPEN/NON-LSD) rear end
The rear end has been whining for a while now and it hasn't really gotten worse. Its a constant whine while in motion i haven't really cared about replacing/fixing this issue until now. I'm expecting my first newborn around June 2nd and i want a safe and a "issue" free truck.
I am a mechanic so i have resources and tools, but I have never messed with any kind of rear ends. I had a 25+ Mechanic tell me just to source me a new whole axle assembly from a salvage/junk yard, but most i found were in the ball park of $900-1300 with miles ranging from 60k-90k. My biggest issue is that this problem started around 94k so i'd rather rebuild it myself with help of the master tech i work with.
My biggest question is what all do i need to buy in parts to completely overhaul everything within the housing, i plan to replace all the seals, bearings, and gears. I just bought a Chilton for my truck but I wasted my money since it didnt give me any info and Mitchell is just a pain in my a** to use.
Any kind of help/guidance will be greatly appreciated.
#2
Master rebuild kit from Motive. ~$120 (Motive uses Timken bearings) they have 2 kits, 2000-prior and 2001-newer.
Napa double lip axle seals and Napa double lip pinion flange seal(the single flange pinion sela is what comes in the kits and guys have complained about leaking) Seals $20
Axle bearings ~$65
Spanner tool to adjust preload on carrier bearings. ~$60 ( I seen these for sale on Ebay)
2.25qts of 75w-140 Full Synthetic ~(60)
RTV sealant for diff cover.
emery cloth to scuff the axles where they meet the seals and outer bearings.
Prob about $3-350 all said and done for parts. I'd much prefer to rebuild my own than purchase a used rearend with 100kmi that you dont know the history behind it or if the owner ever changed the diff fluid out in it. And if it were to have OEM LSD, they suck and always drop the clutch pack retaining clips and ruins the entire diff and it could lock up going down the highway. Search the prior few pages cuz it happened to someone just last week! there's a running poll in the FAQ section regarding grenading OEM LSD's, so be thankful you have open diff. if you plan to install a Limited Slip, go Auburn or DTT, DO NOT go OEM.
Napa double lip axle seals and Napa double lip pinion flange seal(the single flange pinion sela is what comes in the kits and guys have complained about leaking) Seals $20
Axle bearings ~$65
Spanner tool to adjust preload on carrier bearings. ~$60 ( I seen these for sale on Ebay)
2.25qts of 75w-140 Full Synthetic ~(60)
RTV sealant for diff cover.
emery cloth to scuff the axles where they meet the seals and outer bearings.
Prob about $3-350 all said and done for parts. I'd much prefer to rebuild my own than purchase a used rearend with 100kmi that you dont know the history behind it or if the owner ever changed the diff fluid out in it. And if it were to have OEM LSD, they suck and always drop the clutch pack retaining clips and ruins the entire diff and it could lock up going down the highway. Search the prior few pages cuz it happened to someone just last week! there's a running poll in the FAQ section regarding grenading OEM LSD's, so be thankful you have open diff. if you plan to install a Limited Slip, go Auburn or DTT, DO NOT go OEM.
Last edited by dirtydog; 04-30-2012 at 10:22 AM.