Sounds good, just drive it around for now and see if it comes back at all.

 

Yep........Hey lemme ask you a couple questions if ya don't mind.When I do this test on the coil pack,does it matter if I go ahead and leave the wire on the plug or do I need to unhook the wire AND and the coil pack? And say if I check the coil pack on cyl. 1 does that mean the coil pack on cyl. 6 is good also since the two are daisy chained together or do I maybe need to check each pack individually?

 

Gotta say I'm not sure, Check the service manual... every coil on plug car is different...

 

Here we go.........I found a vid on U Tube that shows what to do.I know you're more technically minded and this might seem like kind of a barbaric method to you but any port in a storm right? You probably would get knocked on your can if you're not careful doing this too though.I guess in the case of Hemis and the fact that they have a rubber collar at the top of the plug boot,you would just need to bend the wire on a 90 degree angle in the middle as opposed to the curl lookin bend this guy has.That way the plug boot would sit flat against the head and you could put the plug wire back in like he's done here.If you were to follow this mans technique though,you can actually test your coil pack on bank one by using the plug wire on bank 2 or vice versa.See what ya think....................

 

I've seen that done before with cars that have distributor style ignition, never seen it done on coil packs... but I guess the principal is the same... just be careful, Direct Current shocks hurt like hell, so don't ground yourself to the truck!

 

Let me start by saying (Thank to every one on here!) this forum was very helpful. I was having the same issues with my 04 ram 5.7 dying and dropping out at hi RPM. Threw codes po300 po315 po335. By the time I got on here I already done a tune up,champion platinums plugs and and on my second CKS.i was still getting the po300.


Well, I read on here not to use any thing but copper core plugs and that the 02S mite be the culprit also. That's were I was going to start,pull plugs an get the O2S. Before I did I got another CKS. Third times a charm! I think! It seems to have fixed it. For today any way. I did something different this time tho. In the( instructions) there is (instructions on how to install it) go figure. It said, after installing reset the computer( knew that) and to put it on a dynamometer( highway for Me)and accelerate it to 70 mph and let off the gas pedal. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking. Turn ignition off an back on. If the mil lightis no longer flashing,the misfire learning process has been successful. Did that and it seem to fix it. Hopefully it stays that way!!!!thank again for all the knowledge on this hemi.

 

Was the crank sensor hard to put in? I've read that the old one can be tough to get out.Where is this sensor? I think it's somewhere around the back of the tranny but exactly where I'm not sure.

 

Check the Service Manual, it will have complete instructions on removal and re-installation of that sensor.

There is a misfire learning procedure, but it's hard to do it on a highway, which is why they recommend a dynometer.

 

Did mine on the highway, not to bad if there's not a lot of traffic. CKS is on the passenger side back of the block inline with the crank.

Platinums were already in. They seem to be working fine. Don't want to change them if they work but I may this weekend.

 

Change them, trust me they are crap for our trucks, they run great for like 3,000 miles then they start acting up, I've seen it on previous dodge cars/trucks I've owned.