gear rpms
Ran 4.88s for almost 2 years. helped offset the zero low end of the comp 273
I got a motor build going on. (spare motor) Maybe when I'm done with the build, I should get the 4.56 Gears and try to lift the front off the ground. Motor will have both top and lower end completely redone. Bored, stroked, ported, and blown. Are their larger gears than the 4.56 that could be used on the strip?
my opinion, but dashed with facts:
go 4.56:1.. don't even screw around with 3.92 or 4.1:1.. don't focus solely on RPM's as in indicator of fuel consumption.. it is, but it's misleading.. it's more about engine load..
explanation:
if you're running 1700RPM @ 70mph and you're loaded down (as indicated by a vacuum gauge), you aren't making any better economy than running 2kRPM @ 70mph and pulling a very low vacuum signal.. (the lower the better w/ vacuum)..
another way to say it: if you're tossing excess fuel into the combustion chamber attempting to achieve an RPM or MPH range, and the engine/selected gear is struggling to maintain or achieve that range, that fuel is wasted as incomplete burn takes place.. If you're running a lower gear choice, the engine has more leverage and doesn't struggle to maintain anything but the selected RPM range... it actually sips less gas..
another way to explain it: if you're tossing excess fuel struggling down the road trying to maintain an RPM or MPH range, you're running pig rich and there isn't much the engine can do but try to burn it- hence, it builds RPM's, which translates to MPH's.. but it's leverage is weak, so it consumes a butt load of fuel while running pig rich.. better leverage (as in lower selected gear) achieves the same ends with less effort, and instead of running rich your engine achieves stoich (14.7:1ish) air/fuel ratio, and 'planes' off maintaining that w/o effort..
these rigs are pretty dang heavy.. the EPA via federal mandates make the manufacturers maintain a certain overall MPG of their production fleet.. guess what? the EPA doesn't test them all.. what they do is yank out the calculator and type away- mathematically figuring MPG's based on factors they know.. you know what? that doesn't work.. it's a heckuva lot more complicated than that.. you wanna know what doesn't waste gas? an engine that isn't loaded- RPM's be damned.. furthermore, your hemi doesn't hit the power curve until well into the 2k's.. if you start up a hill, it has to build to it through less leverage on OE gears, w/ lower gears- it's riding along, sipping gas, engine less loaded- AND it's cruising just under the power band.. if a hill appears? if it DOES drop a trans gear, it will only do so for a fraction of what it would have to if it had to build 800+ RPMS to hit the power range..
you'll be disappointed with anything less than 4.56:1 I wager.. there are two effective o/d's in your trans, and your power band starts right at the range 4.56:1 axle ratio and 5th trans gear will have you @ 70mph.. it's a dang perfect situation, and what mother mopar should have offered stock- instead of appeasing a government entity that only knows how to use a calculator..
go 4.56:1.. don't even screw around with 3.92 or 4.1:1.. don't focus solely on RPM's as in indicator of fuel consumption.. it is, but it's misleading.. it's more about engine load..
explanation:
if you're running 1700RPM @ 70mph and you're loaded down (as indicated by a vacuum gauge), you aren't making any better economy than running 2kRPM @ 70mph and pulling a very low vacuum signal.. (the lower the better w/ vacuum)..
another way to say it: if you're tossing excess fuel into the combustion chamber attempting to achieve an RPM or MPH range, and the engine/selected gear is struggling to maintain or achieve that range, that fuel is wasted as incomplete burn takes place.. If you're running a lower gear choice, the engine has more leverage and doesn't struggle to maintain anything but the selected RPM range... it actually sips less gas..
another way to explain it: if you're tossing excess fuel struggling down the road trying to maintain an RPM or MPH range, you're running pig rich and there isn't much the engine can do but try to burn it- hence, it builds RPM's, which translates to MPH's.. but it's leverage is weak, so it consumes a butt load of fuel while running pig rich.. better leverage (as in lower selected gear) achieves the same ends with less effort, and instead of running rich your engine achieves stoich (14.7:1ish) air/fuel ratio, and 'planes' off maintaining that w/o effort..
these rigs are pretty dang heavy.. the EPA via federal mandates make the manufacturers maintain a certain overall MPG of their production fleet.. guess what? the EPA doesn't test them all.. what they do is yank out the calculator and type away- mathematically figuring MPG's based on factors they know.. you know what? that doesn't work.. it's a heckuva lot more complicated than that.. you wanna know what doesn't waste gas? an engine that isn't loaded- RPM's be damned.. furthermore, your hemi doesn't hit the power curve until well into the 2k's.. if you start up a hill, it has to build to it through less leverage on OE gears, w/ lower gears- it's riding along, sipping gas, engine less loaded- AND it's cruising just under the power band.. if a hill appears? if it DOES drop a trans gear, it will only do so for a fraction of what it would have to if it had to build 800+ RPMS to hit the power range..
you'll be disappointed with anything less than 4.56:1 I wager.. there are two effective o/d's in your trans, and your power band starts right at the range 4.56:1 axle ratio and 5th trans gear will have you @ 70mph.. it's a dang perfect situation, and what mother mopar should have offered stock- instead of appeasing a government entity that only knows how to use a calculator..
With 3.55's at 70 mph I’m turning around 1500 to 1600 rpms.Evey little hill it shifts down. and pulling any kind of trailer(I don't do that often),I gotta work it pretty good.
So if I was to get say 3.93's what would the rpms be at 70 mph, or even 3.73's
Any help would be appreciated
So if I was to get say 3.93's what would the rpms be at 70 mph, or even 3.73's
Any help would be appreciated
ok, I have an 03 with 5.7 hemi. I do about average all around, towing, highway, and in town driving. I just would like better acceleration without going overboard and over gearing my engine. I'm guessing the 4.1 would be good for that. But my big question is how would you adjust the speedometer to read right? This is the first vehicle I have owned with a working speedometer and I want it to stay accurate. I have 30.5 inch tires and a bullydog programmer where I can adjust the speedometer with by changing tire size.
Thank you Mike...My bullydog programmer just had an update a month or two ago, which I use to read DTC's, watch my temps (trans and coolant), watch engine load, and track my throttle position when I drive. Maybe it is able to talk to the computer better and actually do something more than be another gauge. I also use it to get a pretty accurate 0-60 and quarter mile time. Best 0-60 is currently 7.6 and quarter mile is 12.9. (right after doing the TM Delete mod for the 03) .



