If I'm able to change my oil should I be able to do these tasks? I was looking in my haynes manual and on youtube and both task seem simple. What do you guys think?

 

Diff service is a snap (doesn't really need a "flush", just drain, clean, reassemble and refill). Brake bleeding often needs two people, but lotsa folks do DIY these two tasks.

 

I don't trust myself to mess around with brakes beyond changing out pads. But the diffs are fairly easy and there should be some searchable threads on it. Basically just open the covers and let them drain, wipe out what doesn't drain and be sure to clean the magnets at the bottom. Put them back on with some "gasket in a tube" stuff and fill them back up to the bottom of the access hole lip with the correct weight oil. Don't forget lsd additive if you have a limited slip diff.

 

I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 HEMI

Looking in my Haynes manual, it does not mention the slip additive for my model/year combination. How else can I confirm that I am indeed NOT adding in the slip additive?

Also, my Haynes manual states the following about gaskets:

"Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the cover flange, then press a new gasket into position on the cover. Make sure the bolt holes align properly"

My understanding was that it was one or the other (Either apply the RTV Sealant or replace the gasket if you have one). Am I going to have to get both RTV sealant and a gasket? Where can I get the gasket??

 

They don't have a gasket, you'll just need the rtv.

 

Definitely a DIY. I would definitely download the 06 or 08 manuals that are available on this site.

 

They don't come stock with gaskets but you can, in fact, buy some if you want. Always check for site sponsors first to see if any of them can get the parts you need. I found the gaskets listed at RockAuto back when I was researching this work. Most agree that RTV is all you need and is the way to go. Just make sure you give it time to set up when the work is complete.

The need for the LSD additive is not completely determined by model/year. Rather, it is determined by whether or not you have a limited slip differential (anti-spin). In your glove compartment, you should find a sticker that details several things, one of them being the type of rear end installed. For example "Corp 9.25". If it states LSD or anti-spin beside it, you need the additive. I went a step further and got Dodge to provide me a build sheet to make sure that mine does not have the LSD. Some gear oils have additive in them already and it is okay to use them even if you don't have the LSD. But if you do have the LSD, you may need to add some extra additive even if the oil has some in it.

This is certainly a DIY project. If I did it, anyone can. However, a couple of the bolts on the front diff are a little bit of a pain to get to. Just try to be patient and creative with the right tools and you can get it done.

I'm betting if you do a search of this forum for "LSD", you'll find plenty of past discussions on this topic. But no need to bother if you can determine that your truck doesn't have it. I was relieved to make sure mine didn't have it, given that there are some known issues with it that can cause failure and they were never recalled for the most part.

 

You wont need additive. Synthetic has it in already. I would only add it if you experience chatter. The chatter would happen around tight turns usually if its going to happen.
HERE is all the Fluid Specs for our trucks
You'll need 2.25qts of 75w-140 for your rear diff.
You need RTV sealant, not both. I would reccomend Permatex Right Stuff 1-Minute gasket maker. It works awesome and you can pour in the oil and drive right away, no set time needed like other RTV sealants.

Brake fluid. I would reccomend Syethetic DOT4. Synthetic has a higher boiling point and DOT4 is better for Trucks due to the severe braking situations. Get a one-man brake bleeder for $8. It's much more reliabel than someone turning a wrench while your pressing the brake pedal. There is room for error with that method.
First things first....Use a turkey baster or some kind of suction device to drain the brake fluid reseviour. Drain it down so it's just above the brake lines. Then fill it to the top with fresh fluid.
Put your box wrench over the plumbing line before you slide the line over the caliper nipple. Then slide the box wrench over the nipple and loosen it. Leave the wrench on the nipple while you casually walk into the truck and press the brake pedal slowly 5-6X's. Tighten up the nipple and remove the line and drain the reseviour. Do this three times for each of the front calipers and 4X's for each of the rears.
Start at the pass rear, then driver rear, the pass front, then driver front.
Make sure you keep the resevious topped off before moving to the next wheel!!!
I wouldn't worry about the ABS module at all. Forget it even exists. Flushing the calipers and lines out will get 90% of the fluid in the system.

 

Get your diff capacities and buy at least that much oil. But the true capacity is whatever it takes the fill it the bottom lip of the hole. Keep in mind you can probably take back any unopened bottles of oil or keep for the next change. I put Royal Purple in mine and had a bottle or two that I was able to take back for a refund.

If you find you do have the LSD, I would go ahead and get some additive and put it in there, even if you buy oil that has additive in it. It won't hurt anything and you won't have to worry about being short getting the chatter.

 

Looks like I have the info I need. It's going to need the additive. There was a sheet in my glove box as stated that mentions the Rear Diff with Anti Spin next to it. Thanks guys!