DDM Tuning 35w 9006 Fog light install on 03 Dodge Ram help
Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
Information about setup
- I'm using a harness on my headlights its the high/low harness ran to my battery.
I'm also using the 50-60 ohm flicker harness on the lights to keep them from reporting lamp out and flickering
My headlights have had no problems
55w ballast on the headlights
35w ballast on the fogs with battery harness
That info helps, but if you are using a Relay Harness then the fog light wires should only be driving the Relay, and the Relay Harness should be giving the Ballasts power from the battery directly, and that line should be fused at 15-20amps depending on what size wire they are using.
So if the fuse you are talking about is a fuse in the OEM fuse box then there is likely an issue with the Relay that could be causing a short.
If the fuse you are talking about is the fuse on the relay harness than a few things could be going on, I'll list them from most common to more abstract issues & solutions I've personally run into:
1) Ground Connection on relay harness is not connected completely.
Check ground, and reconnect.
Always go to chassis ground I suggest you use an "internal tooth lock washer" and made of brass or other very conductive metal. Aluminum Or Stainless not suggested as they will oxidize and you will get a bad ground.
Check current with Multimeter - one end at the power connection on the relay harness (red wire to ballast AFTER the Relay & BEFORE the load resistor) and put your other end directly to the truck's chassis. Then have someone turn the lights on (with engine running) while you watch the multimeter, if your current is rising beyond 15amps then the ballasts/igniters are usually to blame.
Then have your friend turn them off, you should see an immediate drop to ZERO Amps... If you see residual amperage then you might be getting back feed which means the Ballast is a cheap piece of garbage that doesn't have a diode in it to prevent back feed OR (more likely) your Relay is garbage and is letting current through. So first step is to replace the relay with known good relay. [Note: I've seen a lot of cheaper relay harness kits use 10-20A relays which aren't suited to handle the initial start-up amperage on an HID system, which causes them to basically melt inside and then fail.]
4) Fuse Pops AFTER lights are shut off (sounds like your problem)
Most common cause is that the load resistors and/or Capacitor(s) are improperly sized for the system. Load Resistors will heat up and cause more current draw, but won't trigger the fuse to pop until you turn the lights off. (I haven't been able to replicate that problem on purpose myself, but I assume it is the TIPM screwing around once the circuit is turned off)
An improperly sized capacitor likes to "discharge" itself once it sees a voltage drop, and it will send current in whichever direction it can "flow" more freely, which is usually back towards the battery b/c it sees a drop there first (b/c the relay shuts it off) so it usually pops that fuse. I'm not going to explain why, b/c that would require explaining how a capacitor works, so take my word for it.
You should only need four 6 ohm (rated @ 50W for 35w system or 60W for 55w system) resistors, or two 12 ohm resistors to make it work correctly).
The harness that I have always absolutely loved and never had a single problem with is: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=22090
The non-Bi-Xenon version even has LEDs built in to help you troubleshoot issues, which is a VERY nice feature to have.
Then have your friend turn them off, you should see an immediate drop to ZERO Amps... If you see residual amperage then you might be getting back feed which means the Ballast is a cheap piece of garbage that doesn't have a diode in it to prevent back feed OR (more likely) your Relay is garbage and is letting current through. So first step is to replace the relay with known good relay. [Note: I've seen a lot of cheaper relay harness kits use 10-20A relays which aren't suited to handle the initial start-up amperage on an HID system, which causes them to basically melt inside and then fail.]
4) Fuse Pops AFTER lights are shut off (sounds like your problem)
Most common cause is that the load resistors and/or Capacitor(s) are improperly sized for the system. Load Resistors will heat up and cause more current draw, but won't trigger the fuse to pop until you turn the lights off. (I haven't been able to replicate that problem on purpose myself, but I assume it is the TIPM screwing around once the circuit is turned off)
An improperly sized capacitor likes to "discharge" itself once it sees a voltage drop, and it will send current in whichever direction it can "flow" more freely, which is usually back towards the battery b/c it sees a drop there first (b/c the relay shuts it off) so it usually pops that fuse. I'm not going to explain why, b/c that would require explaining how a capacitor works, so take my word for it.
You should only need four 6 ohm (rated @ 50W for 35w system or 60W for 55w system) resistors, or two 12 ohm resistors to make it work correctly).
The harness that I have always absolutely loved and never had a single problem with is: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=22090
The non-Bi-Xenon version even has LEDs built in to help you troubleshoot issues, which is a VERY nice feature to have.
I usually see this on higher end Ballasts, as some of them have Microchips that monitor the system, and if they see a problem they shut off for 1.5-5 minutes (depends on brand).
On lower end Ballasts this usually indicates a blown fuse, bad ground, blown relay or another component failure in the system.
On Can-Bus type vehicles it could be damn near anything, but most of the time it's simply a problem with current that gets back fed somehow to the TIPM system which causes it to shut everything off in the loop. On one customer's vehicle, he ignored the problem and used his Off Road lights as back-ups, which caused major problems, and then he ended up not being able to start the vehicle, because he basically DESTROYED the whole TIPM module, so that was a nice big fat check he had to write to a Dodge Dealer.
[Note: That customer went against my recommendation and used some random "Ebay" Brand HID kit, and a horrrrrrrrrrible relay harness that was downright dangerous... then he installed it himself b/c I refused to do it. End of the story was he came back, told me I was right, apologized for cursing me out and paid me to put in a suitable HID system, then he turned out to be my best customer.]
On lower end Ballasts this usually indicates a blown fuse, bad ground, blown relay or another component failure in the system.
On Can-Bus type vehicles it could be damn near anything, but most of the time it's simply a problem with current that gets back fed somehow to the TIPM system which causes it to shut everything off in the loop. On one customer's vehicle, he ignored the problem and used his Off Road lights as back-ups, which caused major problems, and then he ended up not being able to start the vehicle, because he basically DESTROYED the whole TIPM module, so that was a nice big fat check he had to write to a Dodge Dealer.
[Note: That customer went against my recommendation and used some random "Ebay" Brand HID kit, and a horrrrrrrrrrible relay harness that was downright dangerous... then he installed it himself b/c I refused to do it. End of the story was he came back, told me I was right, apologized for cursing me out and paid me to put in a suitable HID system, then he turned out to be my best customer.]
