Looking for help to stop rear wheel hop
#1
#2
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The fact is that a relatively light-weight rear, more power, and a live-axle dangling on stiff leaf-springs, controlled more or less by middling quality truck shocks is a sure formula for wheel hop.
Start eliminating any of these (the more the better) and things may well improve--a little to a lot. Obviously, the factory did the homework on the "Tenor" so it would be a decent start. However, a good 4 or 5 link system can be made to work, but unless someone does the job who knows what they are doing, not just swapping parts that might be laying around or on-the-shelf, matters can be made worse.
All the best.
Start eliminating any of these (the more the better) and things may well improve--a little to a lot. Obviously, the factory did the homework on the "Tenor" so it would be a decent start. However, a good 4 or 5 link system can be made to work, but unless someone does the job who knows what they are doing, not just swapping parts that might be laying around or on-the-shelf, matters can be made worse.
All the best.
#3
#4
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You didn't say you had already modified the suspension!
Lowering anything frequently aggrevates problems already present. For example, when lowering one of the first things to go is adequate suspension travel and to conrol bottoming spring stiffness is ncreased ("helper springs," no less?--yikes!), both of which contribute to wheel hop. The easiest thing to try is some temperary extra weight--but since you've apparently already tried this... Also, all aftermarket shocks are NOT created equally. In fact some are even junkier than stock.
Too many unknowns at this point for me to comment further. I'd have to see your truck.
Best of luck.
Lowering anything frequently aggrevates problems already present. For example, when lowering one of the first things to go is adequate suspension travel and to conrol bottoming spring stiffness is ncreased ("helper springs," no less?--yikes!), both of which contribute to wheel hop. The easiest thing to try is some temperary extra weight--but since you've apparently already tried this... Also, all aftermarket shocks are NOT created equally. In fact some are even junkier than stock.
Too many unknowns at this point for me to comment further. I'd have to see your truck.
Best of luck.
#5
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I DROP THE REAR 4.5' AND RESET THE REAR ANGLE AT OEM SPECS, THE SHOCKS ARE BILSTINE AND ARE SHORTER. THE REASON FOR FLIPING THE HELPERS WAS THE ARCH IS TO FAR AWAY AFTER FLIPING THE SPRINGS, AND THOUGHT THAT WOULD STIFFIN THE SPRING TO STOP AXLE TWIST
#6
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ORIGINAL: 2avoid
I DROP THE REAR 4.5' AND RESET THE REAR ANGLE AT OEM SPECS, THE SHOCKS ARE BILSTINE AND ARE SHORTER. THE REASON FOR FLIPING THE HELPERS WAS THE ARCH IS TO FAR AWAY AFTER FLIPING THE SPRINGS, AND THOUGHT THAT WOULD STIFFIN THE SPRING TO STOP AXLE TWIST
I DROP THE REAR 4.5' AND RESET THE REAR ANGLE AT OEM SPECS, THE SHOCKS ARE BILSTINE AND ARE SHORTER. THE REASON FOR FLIPING THE HELPERS WAS THE ARCH IS TO FAR AWAY AFTER FLIPING THE SPRINGS, AND THOUGHT THAT WOULD STIFFIN THE SPRING TO STOP AXLE TWIST
Why don't you just leave it stock and put some good old Ladder traction bars
on it ? thanx....R.V.
#7