2002 Ram 1500 4X4 5.9 recirculation door. What's the number?

Thanks
Dan

 

68004226-AC "Housing Air Inlet"

I have not done this myself yet, but just googled it and found this part number.

Hope this helps....

I am sure someone will correct me if i gave out the wrong information.

 

In case this helps. It is a how-to on how to fix the recirc door:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...0-minutes.html

 

Thanks Frank and VSKGaming. That was indeed the thread that helped me diagnose the problem. Yes indeed the fan blows hard and loud and produces hardly any air.

But I just used that part number and name at Mopar.com and they never heard of it for a Ram 1500. Is this a dealer part only?

When reading Frank's thread I assumed that the thing was called a recirc door so that's what I googled. Every which a way. That's what it's called in certain years of Jeep Cherokee but not Dodge trucks.

Then I searched for some kind of an exploded view of the area so I could find it that way. No luck. Had to ask.

I need to buy a service manual for this thing. Anybody got a good source or should I just go to the dealer?

Thanks
Dan

 

Perhaps the 'Mopar' number is different than Dodge/Chrysler's. I know GM and AC/Delco are like that. That's the right part number from the dealer, though. Just checked it against the part in the garage; i haven't tackled the job yet. It is the whole housing unit, not just the door but they say its easier to just remove the new door from the unit as opposed to swapping out the whole unit..

 

I just picked it up at the dealer and it is the whole housing. I'll probably get to it in the next couple of days. One of the crew mentioned in Frank's thread that he just yanked the door out all together. I elected this time to replace it but only once. If it fails again I'm going to eliminate it.

Thanks for the help fellers.


Dan

 

One thing about that door when its not there (either fallen on top of fan or removed) is that outside air is able to enter into the cabin via the recirc air intake under the glove box. So, if its a cold night, the passenger will feel it! Or if its a hot day, you'll have hot air entering the cabin fighting the ac...

 

That is absolutely correct, you would have to eliminate either the outside intake or the cabin intake. You don't want to just remove the door. It's like having a window open constantly.

 

Well it's done. I will call it 16 hours. So seeing as how the dealership wanted $600 to do it I figure I made $37.50 an hour to get it done. Not bad for an old retired guy.

Here's the deal. You can't do MY 2002 series 3 using IamFrank's method. There is nothing but solid backing behind the glove box. You have to pull the dash. Start with the battery negative, then drop the steering column by removing the two 13mm/1/2" nuts that hold it up. You may want to pull the clip that holds the brake pedal to the actuator rod and let the pedal go to the floor. I didn't but I had to bend the stop switch mounting bracket back in shape because the brake lights stayed on. Up underneath where the steering column is secured there are two long screws with silvery 10MM heads that need to come out. I found them with a dental mirror but they come easily with a 1/4" ratchet and short 10mm socket.

The rest of it is just tedious stuff. Start on the drivers side with the threshold and forward door pillar hand hold then work across pulling the forward trim piece above the glare shield. It snaps on for and aft and the forward fasteners are a bitch to get at. Do the same with the pillar handle and threshold on the passenger side. The bezel in front of the speedo cluster has two screws at the top and snaps at the bottom. Likewise the knee panel under the wheel as two screws at the bottom and snaps at the top. Everything else is elementary. When you get the speedo cluster out put it someplace safe and in an upright position. The needles will work themselves around to the wrong side of the zero pins if you tumble it and they are not smart enough to go counterclockwise back to zero. I learned that one the hard way.

I won't go blow by blow from there but do try to remember where the larger screws go. There are only about a dozen of them but I suspect they're kinda important. Don't worry about the little black phillips head screws; there are over 2 million of them and they all gotta come out. Just kidding. About the 2 million part.

All the stuff that faces the seats has to come out EXCEPT THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG PANEL!!!! The glare shield does not come out. There's a welded steel assembly with a 2" tube that goes all the way across the cab from door jamb to door jamb. You will pivot that aft with the glare shield attached enough to get the blend door housing out of there and the new one installed.

I could do my next one in 8 hours probably because I went down so many blind alleys and into dark corners. When you get to the parking brake release handle on re-assembly MAKE SURE YOU STICK THE ROD BACK THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE LOWER DASH PIECE WHERE IT GOES!

The fan now blows your hat off on high speed.

I got three screws left over. One of those little black phillips headed ones, one kinda important looking short and fat goldy looking one, and one that looks like the ones that hold the forward part of the glare shield to the body at the windshield. I hope she don't blow up!

Dan