Well I didn't get to try the spray bottle. I cleaned the three plugs on the throttle body and tried starting it. The truck will run for exactly 3 seconds and then shut down. I try to feather the fuel and it coughs and complains but still shuts off. Is it possible the IAC valve is worn out? I was going to try and take the distributor cap off but it looks like a real bugger to get at...The other thing is if it was the cap would it not run rough in high idle as well? The original problem was with the truck not running at an idle. When I kept the fuel to it it ran okay with no signs of a rough idle...I don't know...open to other ideas .......I also could hear the fuel pump kicking in so I think it must be alright...

 

Sounds like a bad IAC or dirty passage. Take off your throttle body and IAC and clean all of it really well. Put it back on with a new gasket and see what that gets you.

 

Thanks for getting back to me. I removed the throttle body today and will be cleaning it up. Is there anyway of testing the IAC valve to see if it is working while I have the unit of the motor? Another question unrelated to this......I changed the ignition cylinder because the key would come out in all positions and I thought this might be the reason the battery was draining out. I had recharged the battery and damn if it wasn't dead again this morning when I went out to start it,,,,,,,Is there a way of diagnosing what could be draining the battery when the key has been removed in the stop position?

 

Check your IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse. It's located in the little fuse panel in the cab if I remember correctly. Make sure that guy isn't blown and has a good connection.

 

Well i'm not getting any closer to solving the problems. I replaced the IAC switch and the track ran okay for about 30 mins and then it started doing the same thing after I shut it off and tried to restart it.
Also have a problem with the battery being drained while the key is in the off position. Actually out of the ignition. I followed the procedure for the ignition off draw test disconnecting the negative battery lead and hooking up my voltmeter between the neg post and neg cable. it was showing a 12 volt draw which is nuts. I pulled out each fuse and still couldn't get it to drop off. I then pulled the starter out and noticed no change. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could test next? And the other thing is the IOD fuse? where is this located. I see no fuse box in the cab, only the box under the hood.......

 

There can't be a 12 volt "draw". Voltage is not drawn. Current is drawn. Voltage is supplied. IIRC, there should be roughly .25 amp draw with the key off.

 

ok....my bad in typing skills.......meter says roughly 11.56 - 12 amps....with the key off....But thanks for clarifying it for me. In either case,,,,something is draining the battery with the key in the off position and after following what tests I know of I still can't figure it out.

 

Must be a pretty stout meter to measure 12 amps. I suspect that's either 1.2 amps (WAY too much) or .12 amps, which may be 'bout right. At any rate, keep pullling fuses until that draw goes away.

 

Possible bad or deteriorating cell in battery?