I own a 2006 ram slt 2500 with the 5.7 hemi I have never had a problem until now and I am completely stumped. Here goes- The truck started acting up about 6 months ago the lights flickering, check guage lights on, service engine light on, and the voltage guage jumping around. The alternator went so I replaced it, then the truck wouldnt start again, it was the starter replaced that. Had issues again truck wouldnt start replaced the alternator again ran a couple days and died. Had battery checked came back bad and replaced the battery. Truck ran a couple days and it is dead again all the time with the lights flickering and voltage guage dropping. So after a battery, starter, and 2 alternators, my truck wont start. The lights are dim, I can hear the starter clicking but nothing else unless its jumped and as soon as its shifted into park dies and wont start. Can anyone help me? Im still making payments and have to keep it insured because its financed but it hasnt run in 2 months and i cant afford to keep dumping parts in it in addition to payments and insurance

 

Are you having these alts and batts tested before replacing? Has anyone connected their diagnostic equipment to the truck while it was running?

 

Maybe your ground cable is bad. When you jump it are you attaching to the ground bolt or the battery terminal.

 

I reckon there's a voltage drain going on somewhere?
That's flattening the battery between journeys so the next time you jump in the battery's dead, giving you the clicking starter solenoid and flashing instrument cluster lights.
Or your only going short distances with all your lights, heater fan blower and sounds cranked up, draining the battery on these short journeys. That would Not give the truck a chance to recharge the battery. This is a very common situation particularly in winter, when starting crank current drains from truck battery's are at their highest.
Check the battery voltage before you start the truck.
The voltage across the posts should be over 12,4 to 12.6 volts DC on a fully charged battery.
Now bear in mind that this test does not tell you the total story of your battery condition.
But seeing as you have already replaced it and hoping that you haven't damaged it by repeated and low charge conditions, you should be ok?
As I say..... Check your battery voltage before you crank it over.
If your voltage is low, you must assume one of the two scenarios above or a charging issue of some sort.
Check your truck hasn't got a current drain of any significance whilst at rest, with nothing switched on.
If you have, there's your problem.
If not, are you making those short journeys with large currant drains due to lots of accessories switched on, which do not allow your battery to recover?
If none of the above, check your trucks charging system making sure that when the trucks running your getting about 14v+ Across your battery terminals.
Btw, charging is controlled by your PDC. If the trucks not charging correctly, it's dealership time I guess?
But as mentioned, there's a lot for you to check out before you have. To bite that bullet.
Good luck and post up what you find?
Al

 

alternator was tested and so was the battery both bad. The problem started in the summer and I drove with no radio, lights or ac and still had the problem. Had tester hooked to obd and only thing tht came up was the o2 sensor which I replaced. The truck wont even start hooked to trickle charge the charger wont do anything it only starts if its jumped. Battery is a month old and its been jumped twice since replaced. Now its been sitting dead in my driveway for a month. Hooked up a voltage meter and its showing 5 volts right now. There are wires that were ran for a plow and salt spreader that for some reason are hooked to positive terminal. So I guess I will start by disconnecting them and see if it holds a charge if so it a short in one of those wires if not guess I have to have it towed to dealer

 

Yep......sounds like you have a sacrificial drain on your battery by something.
You need to isolate stuff by pulling fuses/cables, whilst you have a meter hooked up in series set on amps.
When you see the the current draw go.....the fuse or cable you just disconnected, is the culprit.
Al.